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By Jo Williams
The Costa de la Luz (Coast of Light) in Huelva Province
runs from the Guadiana river that separates Portugal from Spain
to the Guadalquivir river in the east. Despite not being as scenically
dramatic as its neighbour in Cadiz Province, this part of the Atlantic
coastline boasts long, unspoilt sandy beaches backed by pine woods
and sand dunes and many protected coastal reserves.
Although exposed, the beaches are not as windswept
as the Cadiz section of the coast. The shoreline is punctuated by
small fishing ports and modern resorts popular with mainly Spanish
visitors. These resorts are separated by marshes and river estuaries,
making travelling rather circuitous.
In July and August, these resorts are packed to
bursting point. If you enjoy a lively atmosphere, this is the time
to come but it's essential to book accommodation in advance. Outside
of the summer months, the pace slows down completely.
With comparatively less visitors than other coastlines
in Andalucía, Huelva's Costa de la Luz can still offer some
seemingly virgin beaches where you can find a secluded spot even
in summer. Try the Playa de Castilla east of Matalascañas
that runs alongside the Parque
Nacional de Donaña, a 25km-long stretch that is only
accessible on foot. Alternatively, there is the 22km-long beach,
also part of the Playa de Castilla, which runs between Matalascañas
and Mazagón, which is extensive enough to find a bit of solitude.
To the west of Huelva City is the Barra de El Rompido, which you
can reach from La Antilla
or El Rompido.
Huelva City with its surrounding oil refineries
and industry is a major blot on the landscape around the city. Some
of the resorts are blighted by some insensitively designed buildings,
but generally this coast has escaped some of the worst development
seen along other coasts in Andalucía.
Just over the border with Portugal is Ayamonte,
a fishing port that used to serve as a through-route to Portugal
with its daily ferry to Vila Real de Santo Antonio across the Guadiana
river. This has been superseded by the new suspension bridge that
crosses the river just north of Ayamonte, but the town is still
worth a visit for its pleasant squares and pretty, narrow pedestrianised
streets in the centre. There are noticeably more foreign tourists
here than in other resorts along Huelva's Costa de la Luz, probably
due to its proximity to the Algarve.
Next along the coast is the popular resort and fishing
port of Isla
Cristina, surrounded by marshland and the Paraje
Natural Marismas de Isla Cristina.
Further east is the beach at La Antilla and its
neighbour, the tiny port of El Terrón. Here are fine views
across the Piedras river estuary to the fishing village of El Rompido
and the nature reserve, the Paraje
Natural Marismas del Río Piedras y Flecha del Rompido.
Punta
Umbría is the largest resort on the Costa de la Luz and
the nearest to Huelva City. It has some magnificent beaches, great
seafood restaurants and is on the edge of Paraje Natural Marismas
del Odiel, an impressive wetland reserve.
East of Huelva City is Mazagón, a low-level
modern resort with some excellent beaches, including one backed
by sandstone cliffs. Further east is Matalascañas, which
although more developed than Mazagón, has a good beach and
is only a few kilometres from the entry point to the Parque Nacional
de Donaña.
The next
page describes the eastern section which is the coastline of
the province of Cadiz.
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