By Dee McMath
If you are travelling around Andalucia and are looking
for a modest resting place where you can dip into the village life
of southern Spain, consider staying in a 'Hostal' or 'Pension'.
These are small, usually family run establishments which often have
a lot to offer and can be adapted to most budgets.
To see more and do more in this beautiful area,
without spending a fortune, you could check out some of the local
hostals in some of the pretty white villages all over Andalucia.
A hostal is not the equivalent of a UK Youth Hostel.
It is closer to the idea of a British guest house. They usually
have just a few rooms available and have either a low star rating
or even a no star rating. But don't be put off by this! The star
rating simply denotes compliance with certain regulations on specific
facilities. A hostal can often be more welcoming than - and just
as comfortable as - a large hotel.
A surprisingly large percentage of Spanish people
never bother to apply for a passport. You only have to travel around
the country and especially the south, to see that there is such
a variety of places to go and things to see that the Spanish just
don't feel the need to travel abroad. From lazing on a Mediterranean
beach to surfing on the shores of the Atlantic and then skiing under
the stunning winter sun or rock climbing and bird watching in protecting
natural parks, the possibilities are endless.
Whether you want to go walking in the beautiful
Granada Valley of Lecrín, or high in the Alpujarra Mountains,
or simply tour these or other stunning areas in Andalucia, there
are numerous well run hostals to choose from. The local tourist
office in the area you are heading for will be pleased to provide
you with a list. If you are not travelling in high season (in the
Sierra Nevada ski station, high season is in the winter months from
December to around April), then you don't usually need to book in
advance. Ask around when you stop in a village and see what the
locals recommend or call into the Town Hall and ask which is the
nicest hostal to stay at. You'll be surprised how helpful and chatty
people are when you ask for help. Even though you might find yourself
in an out-of-the-way village where no one speaks English, with the
help of a basic phrase book, you're sure to get by. The rewards
will be great.
I have stayed in a lovely little hostal in my favourite
Alpujarra village - Bubion. The hostal, 'Las Terrazas de la Alpujarra',
is easily found on the left hand side as you go into the village.
A double room is under 30 euros (including a modest breakfast).
The rooms are comfortable and heated in winter (heating is essential
in these mountain areas where the temperatures can drop below zero
in winter). The rooms have en-suite bathrooms and there are ample
sun terraces, where you take in the stunning mountain views and
hear the tinkling of the goat bells as the herds are brought in
for the evening. The company, Nevadensis (based in the neighbouring
village of Pampaneira) is dedicated to nature and the environment.
They often have organised walking groups in the surrounding natural
park, with its starting point from Las Terrazas in the early morning.
The mountain walks are quite stunning, especially in spring and
autumn. There is also wonderful horse trekking nearby - information
at Las Terrazas.
Closer to the buzz and glamour of the Costa del
Sol is another wonderful hostal, where the owner, Isabel, offers
the warmest hospitality you can imagine. Hostería Don José
is at the top of the village of Ojen in the Sierra de los Nieves.
It is easily accessible to Marbella - just a 15 minute drive down
the hill. Hosteria Don Jose has just 6 rooms, with heating in all
of them. A double room here costs 60 euros, including a full buffet
breakfast fit for a king. There is a lovely rustic dining room and
the upper bedrooms have views down into the village and the sea
at the foot of the hill. Just at the entrance as you go in, you
will see an old typewriter, which sometimes has a sheet of paper
in it. Isabel is an artist and a poet and often has a poem on display
in the typewriter. Isabel is Spanish and speaks fluent English,
French and little German. This hostal has a most friendly atmosphere,
home from home comforts and a taste of Andalucian village life -
at a close distance to the all the hot spots of the coast.
These are just two examples of an excellent and
friendly way to spend quality time in the different areas of Andalucia.
There are certainly many more hostals worth a visit in other areas
and surroundings. Whether in cities or somewhere further off the
beaten track, check out the hostals on your Andalucian travels and
enjoy the experience.
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