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| Alcazaba de Almeria
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The City of Almeria
The city of Almeria is Andalucia's most eastern
capital. Years ago, it was not as well known by tourists as other
capitals like Malaga, Sevillle, or Granada. However, that has changed
drastically in the last while with its growth as a major holiday
area.
Almeria holds a great deal of charm and is steeped
in history. It is located at the foot of a mountain range which
is crowned by the magnificent Alcazaba, an Arab fortress
built by the Caliph of Cordoba, Abd-erRahman with three huge walled
enclosures (in the second of which are remains of a mosque, converted
to a chapel by the Catholic kings).
THE ALCAZABA
In times of war, the Alcazaba could hold an army of more than 20,000 men. From here, there is a good view of the city's famed cave quarter, Barrio de la Chanca and of the strange fortified cathedral with its gothic style construction and renaissance facade.
The Alcazaba dominates the city and is the main reminder of Almeria's heyday when it was the major port of the Cordoba caliphate. It grew wealthy on trade and the textile industry with silk woven from the silkworms of the Alpujarras.
Connected to the Alcazaba, the Muralla de Jairan was built in the 11th century by Jairan, the first ruler of the Almeria taifa; the wall descends the valley on the north side of the Alcazaba and climbs the Cerro de San Cristobal on the far side.
THE CATHEDRAL
In 1489, the city was taken over by the Catholic monarchs and its Muslim populace expelled soon thereafter. Almeria's cathedral is at the heart of the old part of the city and was begun in 1524 to replace a predecessor wrecked by the earthquake in 1522. The architecture is a combination of Gothic and Renaissance, its fortress like appearance was due to suffering raids by pirates from North Africa. The north facade is an elaborate mid-16th century design by Juan de Orea.
The cathedral was built during an era when the southern Mediterranean was terrorised by the raids of Barbarossa and other Turkish and North African pirate forces and therefore, its corner towers once held canons. Situated in the centre is the great altar with its wealth of priceless art work including a tabernacle dating from the 18th century, designed by Ventura Rodriguez, paintings by Alonso Cañón; a typical Andalucian altar piece made by Araoz; and the statue of St. Indaletius, the patron saint of Almeria, sculpted by Saizillo.
The spacious interior has a Gothic ribbed ceiling and makes use of jasper and local marble in some of its baroque and neo-classical trimmings. The chapel behind the main altar contains the tomb of Bishop Villalan, founder of the cathedral, and is another work of de Orea, as are the choir (with its stalls made out of walnut wood) and the Sacristia Mayor with its fine carved stone roof, windows and arches.
MUSEUMS
Almeria as one of the eight provincial capitals of Andalucia houses various museums. True historians will appreciate the Almeria Museum which contains numerous objects discovered by the well-known Belgian mining engineer, Louis Siret. The contemporary art museum is well worth visiting. Take a stroll around Almeria and discover for yourself numerous examples of beautiful street art.
RESTAURANTS AND CUISINE
Almeria is also well-known for its restaurants and local cuisine. The best place for reasonably priced restaurants and bars is around the Puerta de Purchena at the end of Paseo de Almeria. In the old town you can find many good bars and cafes near to the town hall.
Gastronomic specialities include "Gurullos" (stew with pasta), "Trigo" (stew with grains of wheat, pork, beans and herbs), "Gachas" (hot and spicy clam stew) and "Escabeche e Sardines" (fresh sardines in hot sauce). As well as cultivating tourism over the past decade, Almeria has also cultivated innumerable plastic-covered greenhouses and now produces the bulk of the province's fruit and vegetables, much of it for export.
Almeria begs to be explored. Spend some time enjoying its winding streets, visiting its fine museums, and dining out on the local cuisine. You will want to return time and time again.
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