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By Fiona Flores Watson
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| Outdoor Tapas Bar |
Seville is great for going out due to the huge variety
of venues in a small area. You can easily visit four or five completely
different bars without walking more than ten minutes between any
of them. The main areas are: Alfalfa, where Pérez Galdós
gets so packed with people on Friday and Saturday nights that cars
can't drive down it; Alameda, which has a more alternative scene,
with lots of gay bars and clubs; and calle Betis by the river in
Triana, which is wall-to-wall with venues, from quiet bars to all-night
clubs.
In the summer, when the temperature is still in
the 30s at night, there's a big bar scene along the river, on Calle
Betis in Triana and Arjona and Torneo on the other side, as well
as outdoor bars in the some of the parks. Clubbing moves to the
Isla de la Cartuja, where young people throng the many seasonal
outdoor venues. A cubano (double measure of spirit with mixer) will
normally set you back between 4 and 5 euros, while a small glass
of beer (cana) is about 1 euro. Red wine (tinto) is reliable, often
Rioja, and costs about 1.50 to 2 euros a glass, while the white
(blanco) is usually sweet and not to English taste.
Friday and Saturday nights are the big ones, with
people generally venturing out at about 11 or 12pm and staying out
till 5am or later.
NEAR THE CATHEDRAL
Bar Tenderete
3B Rodrigo Caro
Small, narrow bar with a few tables at the back, popular with locals.
Interesting décor of antique clocks and radios. Stays open
very late - about the only place that does in this part of Santa
Cruz. Often has spontaneous music - groups of friends with a guitar
belting out some flamenco. Good fun.
Zapata
Rodríguez Zapata, corner with Alverez Quintero
Tiny, characterful bar serving margaritas, daiquiris and tequila
sunrises. Good stopping off point between tapas in Santa Cruz and
Alfalfa nightlife.
Antiguedades
Argote de Molina 40
Don't be surprised to see a dismembered leg hanging from the ceiling
in this bizarrely decorated bar. Located in a very old house, it
has cosy ambience, friendly service and good selection of flavoured
vodkas. Stand outside on a Friday night and watch the well-heeled
of Seville go by on the marcha (night out).
Alfalfa
Garlochi
Boteros 26
If you haven't experienced the fascinating and bizarre spectacle
that is <Semana Santa> in Seville, this is worth a visit.
Decorated with all the requisite silver artefacts, Virgin effigies
and ecclestiastical velvet of this much-loved religious event, it
borders on the kitsch. Order a Sangre de Cristo (Blood of Christ),
the house cocktail, sit back and absorb the high theatre that is
Spanish Catholicism.
Cubanito
Ortiz de Zunega
Tiny hole-in-the-wall bar, good stopping-off point for a couple
of quick chupitos (shots) 2 euros each. Try the flaming cubanito,
it'll put hairs on your chest.
Berlin
Boteros
If you don't feel like going home when everyone else has, head for
Berlin. It's open till 7am, always has a lively atmosphere and you're
sure to meet some interesting characters. Beware, though - it's
a bit of a cattle market.
Centre / Macarena
Capote
El Barranco, Arjona, by the Puente de Triana
Sit under the palms at this outdoor riverside bar, listen to the
cool tunes and pretend you're at the beach - it's nearly a chiringuito
(beach bar). Excellent cocktails for around 5 euros - try the caipirinha.
Cerveceria International
Gamazo 3
Hundreds of beers from all over to choose from, including the usual
stellar line-up from Belgium. More expensive than the normal stuff,
obviously. Also does decent prawn tapas.
Merchants Ale House
Canalejas 12
Irish bar Merchants is more chilled out than compatriot venue Flahertys
(see tapas bars), but has a friendly vibe with a darts board, and
pool tables and sofas upstairs. It's a popular hang-out with the
English expats. Really gets going at about 1am from Thursday to
Saturday.
 Take a panoramic night-time tour through the lamplit streets of Seville, then feel the passion of a flamenco show, or "tablao". The Spanish really know how to enjoy their nightlife, so take this tour to relax and see how it's done! This tour gives you three options: OPTION A: Flamenco show with one drink. (Please note: No food is included.) OPTION B: Flamenco show, tapas and wine. (Please note: Tapas usually includes typical dishes such as Spanish omelet, ham and fish dishes or other Spanish specialties. No vegetarian option is available.) OPTION C: Flamenco show with dinner and wine. (Please note: No vegetarian option is available.)
BOOK YOUR TOURs NOW!
ALAMEDA
Barroco
Corner of Fresa and Calatrava
Sophisticated décor but friendly atmosphere in this café-bar
decorated like an 18th-century salon. Close to the Alameda, but
with its own distinct vibe. Recommended.
Eureka
Belén
Large bar with contemporary décor and relaxed atmosphere,
just off the Alameda. Occasional DJs play a good mix of dance and
funk, or funky as it's known here. Bar staff can sometimes have
a bit of an attitude.
PARKS
Café del Casino
Avenida Maria Luisa
A period gem, this bar next to the Teatro Lopez de Vega is handy
for the Parque Maria Luisa. Its faded elegance - fabulous art deco
mirrors, chandeliers, pink marble pillars - make it ideal for an
afternoon tea or an evening cocktail. Delightful, shady terrace
with plenty of comfortable seating.
Capitania
Prado de San Sebastian
Outdoor bar in this pleasant park, at the far end from the university.
Open all year round, but summer is the time to visit - get away
from hot, narrow streets of city centre, relax under the trees and
belulled by the sound of water running through the Arabic-style
channels.
TRIANA
Fundición
Betis 49-50
This big bar always has a lively crowd, especially at weekends.
Good dance music with plenty of your favourite cheesy 80s pop classics.
A good place to meet people, though not many of them will be locals!
CLUBS / BARS WITH DANCING
The bigger clubs only open on Thursdays, Fridays
and Saturdays. Don't bother turning up till after 03.00. For gay
and lesbian night life, the Alameda's the place to go. Some places
will charge when they have live music or name DJs.
ALFALFA
Catedral
Cuesta del Rosario 12
Well located right next to Plaza de Alfalfa, this is probably the
best centre of town venue. Ecclesastically themed décor,
as you'd imagine. Plays R&B, funk and garage. 10 euro entrance
fee.
Elefunk
Adriano 10
Small bar-club with a lively and friendly atmosphere and good music
- 'funky' as it's known here.
El Mundo
Siete Revueltas 5
A small, divey bar-club, this has a laid-back atmosphere with some
dance podiums at the back for the less inhibited. Thursday is 80s
theme night, with videos, projections and other media to do with
your favourite pop classics.
ALAMEDA
Monasterio
Amor de Dios 18
Popular gay and lesbian venue.
Fun Club
Alameda de Hercules 86
Cavernous, sparsely furnished disco for the alternative crowd, which
has local and regional rock, drum n bass and metal bands.
Hercules Mitico
Small but lively gay bar, with friendly atmosphere and bijou dance
floor. Entry charge at weekends. Classic dance hits.
Weekend
Torneo 43
This venue is a big, open space - only for serious dancers as there
are no cosy alcoves for chatting. Music is hard house, with guest
DJS often appearing as well as live acts. 10 euro entrance on Friday
and Saturday.
TRIANA
Río Latino
Betis 40
On the main night-time boulevard of Triana, this place feels much
more local in character than other, more touristy venues. Spanish
and international pop hits.
Boss
Betis 67
Probably the most upmarket club this side of the river, this place
has four bars each with different décor. It attracts a fashionable
crowd and plays some good house music. Pricey drinks.
LIVE MUSIC
Every summer the Ayuntamiento of Seville (city council)
stages a series of free concerts, from pop to classical music. Venues
include Plaza San Andrés and the gardens of the Monasterio
de la Cartuja on the island of La Cartuja. For more information
see www.sevilla.org/cultura. There are also music festivals which
are advertised around the city; plus see El Giraldillo, the excellent
free listings magazine.
El Perro Andaluz
Bustos Tavera 11
This popular venue with lots of cred has an impressive roster of
everything from blues and country to rock, reggae and Brazilian
music. Attracts local artists and actors, so the crowd´s usually
interesting.
El Hobbit
Regina
A few blocks from Encarnación, this place has jazz on Thursdays
and folk on Saturdays, as well as blues and rock almost every week.
Carboneria
Leviés 18
Mainly known for its free nightly flamenco, this well-established
place also has live folk, jazz and Arabic music. An atmospheric
old building with lots of alcoves and wooden beams, it is often
packed, especially at weekends. In winter the small bar by the entrance
is especially cosy thanks to a chimenea (fireplace). The long tables
with benches next to the first, smaller stage give it an intimate
atmosphere, while the larger rear area can feel a little impersonal.
Although many tourists come here, there are plenty of locals too.
Many of the clubs listed above, as well as Capote
on Arjona (see copa bars), have live music. For lovers of latin
rhythms, you can catch live Cuban music at weekends at Nu York on
Marques de Paradas, an elegant bar with pricey drinks, and Azucar
de Cuba on Paseo de Colon.
Look out for posters, flyers or see El Giraldillo
magazine.
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Seville Night Tour with Tablao Flamenco Show