By Fiona Flores Watson
TAPAS BARS & CAFES
Tapas
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| Restaurant in Santa Cruz |
Tapas in Seville is like coffee and croissant in
Paris - it's a key part of life and integral to local culture, both
gastronomically and socially. Ir de tapeo - to go on a 'tapas crawl'
- is how most Sevillanos spend their evenings out. The selection
and quality of food are both invariably superb, you can eat as little
or as much as you like, and you can usually find somewhere serving
food, whatever the time of day. The seafood and ham are especially
good here.
There are hundreds of tapas bars in Seville, on
main streets and tucked away in little side alleys; good grazing
areas include Alfalfa; Calles Mateas Gago and Santa Maria la Blanca
in Santa Cruz; the Plaza San Salvador end of Tetuán; and
San Eloy/Plaza del Duque.
Note that in some tapas bars you have to order at
the bar and collect the tapa yourself when it's ready (usually in
a matter of minutes), while at others you'll have the option to
sit at a table and be served by a waiter - and may be charged extra
for privilege. A tapa will generally cost between 1.50 and 2 euros.
Tapas Bars & Cafes in SANTA CRUZ
La Giralda
Mateos Gago 1
Arguably one of the best tapas bars in Seville, with delicious dishes
such as solomillo al whiskey (beef sirloin in whisky) and the divine
pimientos del piquillo con musselina de bacalao (red peppers stuffed
with cod), plus a good selection of sherries Beautiful interior
with vaulted ceiling, while the tables outside have a ringside view
of the Giralda. Very efficient service and reasonable prices considering
the quality. Recommended.
Las Teresas
Santa Teresa 2
In the heart of the barrio's windy cobbled streets, this place is
decorated in traditional style, with hanging hams (beware veggies;
these are actually above your head rather than behind the bar as
normal!), antique posters of Seville and bottles of vintage sherry.
Plenty of tables outside to watch the evening paseo (stroll). Excellent
cured meats from Huelva and Salamanca.
Bodega Santa Cruz
Rodrigo Caro 2
Known locally as Las Columnas because of the massive stone pillars
outside, this has a great selection of montaditos (small toasted
sandwiches) and famed adobo (marinated fried fish). A good snack
stop on your walk around charming Barrio Santa Cruz. It's cheap,
the food's tasty and the service is speedy - no wonder it's a local
institution.
Cafe Levies
San José
A very popular café-bar with friendly service, this place
is a good all-day option - it's open from breakfast until late at
night. There's seating in the pleasant café-style interior,
or outside in the plaza. Recommended are the spinach croquettes
and the chipirones a la plancha (grilled baby squid). Gets lively
later on; handy for the nearby Carbonería (see live music).
Tapas Bars & Cafes NEAR THE CATHEDRAL
Flahertys
Alemanes 7
Seville has several Irish bars; this one and Merchants (see Copa
Bars) are two of the best. Both are lively and friendly with good
music, and a mixed clientele of locals, tourists and expats; however
their prices are steeper than elsewhere.
Flaherty's is the larger of the two, with a couple
of bars, an interior patio and plenty of outside tables - which
are usually packed as it's right next to the cathedral. Most of
the helpful staff speak English, a rarity in Seville, and there's
a big screen showing major sports events if there's an unmissable
match on while you're here. It does good Irish-influenced tapas
- try the spinach soufflé - and excellent salads, as well
as tex-mex fare if you need a complete break from tapas. Occasional
live music.
Casa de la Moneda
Adolfo Rodríguez Hidalgo 3
Part of the original mint, this is an authentic, old-fashioned venue
serving excellent fried fish tapas, such as calamares fritos (fried
squid). Also recommended is the espinacas reales con nueces y baicon
(royal spinach with nuts and bacon). Not far from the action, it's
in a nice square just off Avenida de la Constitución and
has outside seating.
Tapas Bars & Cafes in
ALFALFA
La Habanita
Golfo 3, off Pérez Galdós
Great mojitos and caipirinhas, outdoor seating in a leafy cul-de-sac
and excellent Cuban/Spanish veggie and vegan tapas make this place
just off the main Alfalfa drag well worth a visit. Try the couscous;
the leafy salads (around 5 euros) are excellent and imaginative,
which is a rarity in Seville.
Bar Alfalfa
Corner of Alfalfa and Candilejo
Small but lively bar with campesino décor, serving Italian/Spanish
tapas (the owner, Gianni, is Italian) such as fabulous bruschetta
and provolone al horno (baked cheese) plus funky tunes. Interesting
mix of clientele.
Sopa de Ganso
Pérez Galdós 8
Buzzy place with huge list of tapas, including vegetarian options.
Good croquettes of goat's cheese and walnuts (croquetas de cabrales
y nueces) as well as decent (Spanish-style) salads.
 Seville is the perfect place for discovering the cuisine and wines of Andalucia. The city itself is considered by many to be the best place in Spain for tapas.
On this walking tour you can visit two of the best tapas bars or restaurants in the city, discovering the history of tapas. Taste typical Sevillian ham, Andalucian gazpacho soup, Spain's famous fried fish, Sevillian olives or the popular orange wine and sangria.
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Tapas Bars & Cafes in the CENTRE
La Campana
Sierpes 1
This café is an institution in Seville, serving all the cakes
and pastries beloved by locals as they enjoy a pit-stop after a
hard morning's shopping. During Semana Santa you can get coloured
Nazareno sweets (the penitents wearing long robes and hoods) which
make a fantastic, if bizarre, souvenir. Otherwise traditional goodies
include yema (sweets made from egg yolks) and lenguas de almendra
(almond biscuits).
Cafetería Universal
Blanca de los Rios 1 (near Plaza del Salvador)
Excellent, affordable tapas with good-sized portions in a handy
location near the main shopping area. Sit at the bar, by the window
or outside. Good vegetable pasteles (terrines) and caldereta de
venao (venison stew).
Tapas Bars & Cafes in the PLAZA ENCARNACION
El Rinconcillo
Gerona 40
Allegedly the oldest tapas bar in Seville, dating from the 17th
century. It certainly feels like nothing's changed in many years,
with its flagstone floor and ancient bottles of wine lining the
walls. Very atmospheric and popular with locals and tourists alike.
Coloniales
Plaza del Cristo de Burgos 19
Pleasantly located on the recently revamped Plaza Cristo de Burgos,
this place does reasonably-priced tapas including tabla (bread baked
with a topping, such as cheese or fish - better than it sounds)
as well as grilled fish and meat.
La Giganta
Alhóndiga 6
The speciality here is tabla. Try the delicious queso gratinado
con miel y romero (bread topped with cheese, honey and rosemary
- very Roman!) or bacalao ahumado (smoked cod) for between 5 and
8 euros. Tapas of the day might include costillas a la miel (spare
ribs in honey) or lomo a la cerveza (beef sirloin in beer).
La Fábrica
Plaza de Armas
Excellent home-brewed beer in this bar in the Plaza de Armas shopping
centre, formerly the Estación de Cordoba. Some good tapas
as well try the bacalao a la riojana (cod in red wine) and cazon
en adobo (marinated dogfish). Handy for the nearby bus station if
you've got a wait; the prices are slightly higher than normal.
Tapas Bars & Cafes ALAMEDA
Eslava
Eslava 3-5
One of Seville's best and most popular tapas bars, this place just
off Plaza San Lorenzo near the <Museo de Bellas Artes> is
permanently packed. It does a range of good, inexpensive tapas -
try the salmorejo.
Tapas Bars & Cafes TRIANA
Café de la Prensa
Betis 8
Its walls are plastered with pages from old newspapers and the clientele
are as happy playing chess or cards as they are talking and drinking.
An equally good place to relax with a coffee in the afternoon, or
pop in for a late-night copa.
Sol y Sombra
Castilla 151
Cosy bar with friendly atmosphere and bullfighting memorabilia on
the walls. Specializes in appropriately meaty tapas including garlic-roasted
beef and revueltos (scrambled eggs) with meat. Good wines.
Tetería Chefcahouen
Pureza 22
This cosy Moroccan-style tea house is decorated in soothing tones
with lots of floor cushions, rugs and low lighting. If you need
a change of scene from bright, noisy, tiled tapas bars, this is
the place to come. Recline in comfort with an exotic tea served
in a pretty tea glass. Perfect for a good, long chin-wag.
El Faro de Triana
Puente Isabel II
With one of the best views in the city, right on the bridge (known
locally as the Puente de Triana), this former lighthouse (faro)
has good, cheap tapas and huge glasses of beer and wine. Excellent
gambas (prawns) and habas con jamon (ham and broad beans). Try to
get a table on the terrace upstairs.
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