The town of Caniles

(Baza Region of Altiplano, Granada Province)

By Dee McMath

One of the very picturesque towns to visit in the Baza region of the Altiplano of Granada is Caniles. In the north of the Granada Province, Caniles is 911 metres above sea level with Latitude 37 o26’ and Longitude 002 o43’. It sits on the edge of a plateau, between the north face of the Natural Park, Sierra de Baza and La Hoya de Guadix.

The overall municipality of Caniles (the third largest in the Altiplano region) stretches across some 220 Km2, including the main town of Caniles and also comprises of nine little hamlets: Balax, Cantarranas, El Francés, El Pertiguero, Estación de Hijate, La Juaca, Las Molineras, Los Gallardos, Los Olmos, Rejano and Valcabra. The overall population is around 5,000.

Getting to Caniles

Caniles is roughly seven kilometres from Baza town (the capital of the area) and is the most northerly town in the Granada Province in the direction of Almeria. It is easily accessible by car, taking the C-323 Baza-Huércal Overa road. Another main access road is the one that joins Baza with the Almanzora Valley (Almeria) - the A334 motorway. Being situated on the south-east border of the Sierra de Baza Natural Park, the drive up to this area is incredibly beautiful.

What to expect of Caniles

Sitting on the edge of the Sierra de Baza Natural Park, Caniles is set in stunning natural countryside, surrounded by lush vegetation and offering the nature lover and photographer the chance to follow beautiful countryside walks and excursions. A walk around the little town itself is a delight, with the pretty whitewashed Andalusian houses, including some original cave houses, also typical of the region. Agriculture is the main local activity and the people live by traditional Andalusian customs and values and are known to be very welcoming to visitors. There are several excellent bars and restaurants where you can test the gastronomic delights of local produce in with time tested recipes.

Climate

Long dry summers are made more pleasant than some hotter parts of Andalusia, with refreshingly cool evenings. Due to the altitude, winters are cold with a possibility of snow. Annual rain fall is not much more than 350 mm.

History of Caniles

Caniles is typical of the Baza and Altiplano area in that its origins date back many centuries, with strongest and perhaps most evident links from the time of the Moorish occupation. Although the original name, ‘Canilles’ is thought to have Latin origins, during the time of the Moors it was known as ‘Qanalis’, which later became Canilles de Baca (Baza). Apparently Canilles paid a large sum of money in 1646 to become independent of Baza, to become called simply - Caniles.

There are Neolithic remains in the Cueva de la Pastor and the Poblado de los Montones de Piedra. Traces of the Bronze Age are also evident in Rejano, Carriza, the San Sebastian quarter and Fuente de la Salud. The Pheonicians also left their mark, when using the natural river paths of the Bodurria, Morax and Valcabra as gateways for trading between Andalusia and the Levante region.

In 1487, when the Catholics ousted the Moors, Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba took over the area. Once the Moors were gone, the area had few inhabitants and was dependent on Baza, until 1679 when Carlos II released it from this jurisdiction.

It was in the 20 th century that Caniles enjoyed some prosperous times with the construction of the new railway line and a sugar refinery. However it was to be thrown once again into crisis during the years of the Spanish Civil War. Then in the 1950’s and 1960’s there was a mass exodus from this and many other parts of rural Andalusia to other parts of Spain and Europe. The countryside once again became under populated, to the detriment of agricultural production. Many people are being drawn back to the ‘good life’ now enjoy the wildlife as well as the rural tranquillity during vacation time, far from the bustle of the coast and larger cities.

Places of Interest

• You can still see some of the houses of the gentry of times gone by, such as the fine mansions of the Fernández and Manceba families. The wonderful wrought iron balcony work is a fine demonstration of the artistic workmanship of the 18 th century.

• There are two historical relics in Caniles which have been beautifully restored and are of great interest. One is the 17 th century Libro de Apeo y Exención (The Survey and Exemption Book) which officially records the payment made to Baza allowing Caniles to drop the name of Baza in its name. The other book is that the Libro de Reparto de Tierras (Land distribution book) from the same time.

• Another very interesting piece of history from that era is the source of the tradition of the ‘ Robo del Santo’. During the time of the plague which ravaged the village of Caniles, somehow those who live in the San Sebastian Street, where the Hermitage was, were not affected by the epidemic. Naturally the people believed that the saint had intervened and protected these people from infection. Some families took up refuge in the Hermitage and even stole the image of the saint in an attempt to protect themselves. To this day, fights are re-enacted during the festive celebrations in Caniles each January. Nowadays they fight as a symbolic gesture and the losers have to pay the cost of the festivities.

• The Caniles parish church was built during the 16 th and 17 th centuries in honour of Santa Maria and San Pedro. The main chapel reflects the rich Mudéjar style.

• The Hermitage of San Sebastian also dates back to the 17 th century.

• The restored Torre de los Moros (Moorish Tower) dates back to the 13 th and 14 th century.

• The granary which was grain store, convent and theatre, is a fine example of 18 th century civil architecture.

Fiestas

• The 18 th to 20 th January sees the celebration of San Sebastian Day. It is popularly called ‘ El Robo del sant ’ (the stealing of the Saint).

• During Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week), the villagers celebrate the ‘Día de la Vieja’ (the day of the old woman)

• From the 11 th to 13 th June the festival of San Antonio de Padua is celebrated.

• The first week of August sees the celebrations of the annual Feria (Fair) of Caniles.

Gastronomy

The many wonderful local dishes include game such as rabbit or hare cooked in wonderful sauces and with locally grown vegetables. There is a local recipe including wild trout with almonds, seasoned with fresh aromatic herbs such as thyme and Rosemary that is delicious. This and many other dishes are cooked in the finest locally produced virgin olive oil.

Excellent quality cold meats are also produced in Caniles and add to the distinctive Mediterranean flavour of the superb food of this true Andalusian country lifestyle.

There are several excellent bars and restaurants in Caniles where you can try out the local food and wine. For example, try the ‘Venta de Caniles’, on the Carretera de Caniles -

Tel: 958 700 383

Places to stay

There are several hostels to stay in or rural houses to rent. Or why really live the history of the land and stay in a cave house For example:

Casa Cueva Larula - with 3 bedrooms and a log fire. Tel: 958 710 417 or 639 081 946.

For Further information on Caniles, contact the Town Hall:

Ayuntamiento de Caniles
Calle San Sebastián, 2
Tel: 958 710 011

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Related Pages

The City of Granada

The Natural Parks of Granada

The Costa Tropical

The Villages of Granada