By Dee McMath
At 766 metres above sea level, the stunning little
village of Castillejar is one of the six Andalusian hamlets that
make up the region of Huescar in the north east corner of the Province
of Granada. With a population of around 2,000, this idyllic haven
is tucked away and yet easily accessible at just 15 minutes off
the A-92 Mediterranean autovía (motorway). It is some 120
kilometres from Granada City and just 15 kilometres from the main
town of Huescar.
 This beautiful region of contrasts is one of the
prettiest and least spoilt areas in Andalusia and is well worth
a visit. Castillejar was a fortress against invasion from Murcia
in Moorish times gone by and still shows distinct links with its
historic past. Sitting between the two rivers Guardal
and Barbatas, this enclave has, over the centuries,
been witness to the passing of important historic settlers of many
different cultures of the Iberian Peninsula. Nowadays it is the
perfect stopping off point for visitors to the nearby Natural Parks
of Castril Sierra and Cazorla.
Other points of natural beauty and interest in the vicinity are
the lakes of Negratín and San Clemente,
the archaeological route, Baza Natural Park and
lots more.
As with the other villages in and around this area,
there is a continued tradition for building and living in cave
houses. With all the mod cons of modern living and the
added the advantage of a constant all-year-round inside temperature
of between 18ºC and 20ºC, the cave dwellings are as practical
as they are pretty. Although the village has traditionally been
an agricultural and farming community, there is now a keen focus
on rural tourism.
Temperatures can be extreme and very different from
the typical Costa del Sol climate. Be prepared for hot dry summers
and cold winters, with snow on the surrounding mountains.
The opportunities for outdoor activities such as
walking, hiking, climbing, mountain biking, horse riding, canoeing,
fishing, etc are endless in the area all around this and the other
villages of the region. The contrast in the surrounding countryside
from desert to lush green valleys is a paradise for the keen photographer
or artist. This is especially true in spring and autumn. The abundance
of flora and fauna is always full of surprises.
A favourite place, by the banks of the River Guardal,
is Las Presas, where there is a special picnic area, ideal for families
to enjoy the countryside in safety. There are rustic stone benches
and tables and barbeques cooking and heating up food. The surrounding
trees offer welcome shade from the hot summer sun. After eating
and enjoying the countryside, you can also visit the nearby ancient
archaeological site of Balunca, which is just a
couple of kilometres outside of Castillejar. It's also worth finding
your way to the Mirador de las Eras Altas, which
is a high viewpoint which gives a sweeping panoramic view over the
valley, with the river Guardal wending its way through the fine
countryside. Look out also for Los Barrancos, Presa
del Cura and Camino del Limán and
add them to your itinerary.
History
Previously named Castilleja (from Castilla - Castle)
up until the end of the 18th century, it later became known ad Castillejar
de los Rios and is now simply known as Castillejar.
Since ancient times, Castillejar, with its land
base in the Guadalquivir valley has been a strategic point on the
important trading route linking the Almeria and Murcia coastlines.
Its natural position between the Barbatas and Guardal rivers has
played a great part in its own historic and cultural evolution,
making it a natural stronghold along this important commercial gateway.
The village is steeped in a deep historical past,
like all the other villages in this region, going back many centuries.
El Conde (Count) de Lerín and el Duque (Duke) de Alba were
both involved in the overthrow of the Moors and the then there was
the ecclesiastic dependence under the Archbishop of Toledo.
The upper part of the village in particular, still
shows many traces of the historic roots of this delightful village.
The past lives on within the little narrow streets and the beautifully
kept, whitewashed houses.
The Hermitage of Santo Domingo
The hermitage of the patron saint of Castillejar,
Santo Domingo de Guzman is a fine building to view from the outside,
but is sadly neglected and in ruins in its interior. It has been
closed up for many years after having been destroyed during the
Civil War. Restoration has never taken place after that time. However
during the August fiesta of the Patron Saint, there is a special
mass and procession with a local band in celebration of the saint.
Parochial Church
This church, which dates back to around 1650, was
constructed on the ruins of an ancient fortress. It is built in
the Mudejar / Toledo style in brick and stone. The tower is in renaissance
style with the typical symbol of the rose, denoting the territory
of the Archbishop of Toledo. An inscription remains on the wall
from 1756 and the parochial archives contain documents from the
16th century. Several sculptures are still in the church, the most
interesting of which is an image of Christ carved in wood and finished
polychrome. This sculpture belongs to the Granada school. There
is also a sculpture, once again wood carved and finished in polychrome
from the Valencia school.
Barrio de la Cruz & Barrio San Marcos
These two main sections of the village are both
exceptionally beautiful and the many of the houses are in the traditional
cave dwelling style. Some are tightly knitted into the little village
streets and others facing outwards with spectacular views across
the valleys and mountains.
La Moreria
This amazing collection of cave dwellings was once
inhabited by the Moors during the time of the Muslim occupation.
They are high up off the banks of the river Guardal and very difficult
to access, but an incredible site to see.
Molino del Duque
This beautiful old mill, which was probably built
on the site of a Roman Mill in 1638 and later enlarged by the Duke
(el Duque) of Alba. It was originally powered by water and is constructed
almost entirely out of wood. The large old diesel engine which is
thought to have been added during the 19th century, since diesel
engines were invented during the previous century. The diesel engine
would have been used at times when water levels ran low. The flower
produced in the mill is thought to have been used both for domestic
use and for animal feed. The present owner is modernising the attached
house but is attending to preserve the actual mill.
Fiestas
Fiestas de la Candelaria
For as long as can be remembered,
the beginning of February has been reserved for a special bonfire
night, when villagers, neighbours and visitors are invited to taste
all sorts of local food and wine. Meats and other products are donated
by the villagers and a huge communal barbeque is enjoyed by everyone.
Part of the celebration is the wine competition, with prizes for
the best three wines of the year.
Fiesta de la Cruz
The renowned Crosses of May is celebrated
on the third of May, when a beautiful religious procession is followed
through the village, all decked out with colourful flowers.
San Isidro Labrador
There are three days of celebrations around
the 15, 16 and 17th of May, the highlight of which is the procession
making its way to the hermitage.
Fiesta of the Patron Saint
Celebrations in honour of the Village Patron
Saint, Santo Domingo de Guzman are held during the hot month of
August. This fiesta brings in many people from surrounding areas
and the village takes on a new life. The village square becomes
the central point for dancing, traditional music and colourful celebrations.
The typical dance competition and of course, bulls, are all included
in the festivities.
Fiesta of the Virgen de la Asunción
This religious festival lasts for
three days around the 15th of August.
Fiesta of the Virgen de Mercedes
This one-day festival takes place
on the 24th September. There is a procession, where the villagers
and visitors follow the saint through the village streets and then
those present are invited to share a lunch together.
Fiesta of the Virgen del Rosario
Devout religious followers come from
all around to follow this religious procession through the village
streets. The procession even sometimes stops off at the home of
certain members or the brotherhood of the church, by way of appreciation
of their devotion.
Gastronomy in Castillejar
There are excellent restaurants where you can try
out the local dishes in the village. A typical dish is the lamb,
which comes highly recommended. You will also see cuscus on the
menu, as well as dishes including rabbit and hare. The wines are
also very good and compliment the fine home cooking you would expect
of a small Andalusian village. Many villagers make local wines,
which are well worth tasting and even buying a bottle or two to
take away with you.
For further information, contact the Town Hall
(Ayuntamiento) of Castillejar:
Calle Agua, 6
Castillejar
Tel: 958 737 001
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