By Dee McMath
The Andalusian village of Orce may be small, but
is nevertheless of remarkable importance in the search of the first
traces mankind in Iberia, with archaeological digs uncovering proof
of settlers there from millions of years ago. In the far north of
the Granada Province and bordering onto the Province of Almeria,
the village of Orce is a also true discovery for anyone in search
of real Andalusia. It is 926 meters above sea level and has a population
of just over 1,400. At just 150 kilometres from the City of Granada,
it is easily accessible by road. Orce is one of the six main villages
of the region of Huescar (pronounced 'Wescar'). This whole area,
together with the neighbouring region of Baza is
known as the Altiplano de Granada.
 The people in the main village of Orce and in the
three nearby hamlets of Fuente Nueva, Venta Micena and Pozo de la
Rueda enjoy a simple rural life. The prehistoric relics include
the much discussed and significant historical remains of a skull,
which has become known as "El Hombre de Orce"
(Orce Man). There are also fascinating and significant remains of
an ancient city from the Bronze Age.
The natural surroundings are as breathtaking as
the historic heritage is evident. As is the way with the southern
Spanish, traditions and local cooking are taken seriously and the
combination of all this elements, promises that a visit to Orce
will be a real delight to the senses.
Like the other villages in Huescar, the dramatic
contrasts between lush pastoral landscape and dry flatlands is one
of the main attractions and something which very much sets it apart
from other parts of Andalusia.
The Surrounding Countryside & Nature
The wonderfully cool green natural park of the Sierra
de María, is such a strong contrast to the arid landscape
over the close by Velez and Salar areas. In the mountain paths,
there are remains of prehistoric flint mines, "Minas Pehistóricas
de Silex de la Venta", in the sierra del Periate.
A major feature of Orce is the natural spring of
Fuencaliente. Bathers in this wonderful clear pool,
share the water with the friendly resident red mullet, who happily
share their habitat. Visitors are always surprised to find that
there is no water treatment or maintenance keeping this delightful
pool so clear and fresh and warm. In fact the secret is the small
natural source at the base of the pool, constantly bubbling away
underneath. The water has a constant year-round temperature of 21ºC,
giving the pool thermal qualities. This makes the perfect place
to relax and bath in all seasons.
For those who look to escape the intense heat and
crowds of the Andalusian summer months, this is wonderful place
to come to breathe fresh, clean air and enjoy nature. A walk or
a picnic beneath the shade of the beautiful elm and weeping willow
trees after an afternoon dipping into the spring pool is both relaxing
and reviving. Seeing the popularity for such outings, the Town Hall
has even provided a recreation area, equipped with barbeques - available
and free for public use.
While in Orce, it is also worth taking a leisurely
stroll along the Paseo de los Caños, a pretty
tree lined avenue. There is a drinking fountain with four jets,
where you can stop for a refreshing drink along the way. This little
boulevard originally marked the banks of a river which is now redirected
and runs underground. There was an Arabic burial ground on the other
side of the old river bank, which later became a Christian graveyard.
Further on, you come across another, smaller drinking fountain with
just two jets. Up until the 18th century, this avenue marked the
boundary of the Orce. It is a very pleasant walk through such a
historically important village.
History
There are very interesting ancient archaeological
sites at Orce: Fuente Nueva, Barranco del Paso, Barranco León
and Venta Micena. It was in this last find that the cranial remains
of, what is now known as, "Hombre de Orce" (Orce Man)
were found.
Traditionally the local economy was based on agriculture
and breeding livestock, with a particular emphasis on the famous
segureña lamb, famous and much sought after for its exquisite
flavour.
Many ancient stone utensils have been found and
there are thought to be many human fossils still to be discovered.
To date, the Fuente Nueva site is the most important of the four
in Orce, for the large amount of flint, dolomitic limestone which
are related to rhinoceros, hippopotamus, elephants and other mammals.
As well as these traces of ancient species, there
are also archeological remains, on of great interest being 'el cerro
de la virgen' (the hill of the virgin), where you can see the remains
of a Bronze Age village dating back to 2,500BC.
Orce is truly rich in historic and architectural
heritage, as can be seen with the Segura Palace of the 16th - 17th
century, the church of the 17th century and many stately homes.
The fortress style castle at Orce is testament to
its rich historic past. The Alcazaba de las Siete Torres
(Fortress of Seven Towers) was built in stages, from the 6th century
and was not finished until the Christian era in the 16th century,
spanning a millennium of cultural changes.
La Iglesia (Church) de Santa Maria
This church, built in the baroque style, has one
main aisle, opening on to side chapels. The stone façade
is in a fairly plain classic style. The main alter is quite a feature
in the church and although some of it was destroyed during the Spanish
Civil War, much of the structure and decoration is original.
La Iglesia (Church) de San Sebastián
It is believed that this church sits on the site
of a Muslim shrine. It was also at one time home to a hermit. Although
the present day building is largely reconstructed, it is still thought
to be the oldest church standing in Orce. The temple was re-christened
and brought into the Christian faith, at the wishes of Saint Sebastian.
This was after the Moorish occupation had ended and Spain was in
the hands of the Christians.
The small square building which exists to this day
was built in the 18th century. There used to be a beautiful carved
figure of Saint Sebastian on view in the church, but this disappeared
during The Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). The most lovely views
of Orce are from the site of this little church. One of the most
respected fiestas( link ver arriba, fiestas San Sebastian) is the
one held in honour of San Sebastian, from the 18th to the 29th January.
La Iglesia (Church) de San Antón
San Antón is as loved and respected amongst
the folk of Orce as is San Sebastian. Both saints are held in high
esteem culturally in the village and both play an important role
in local traditional calendar. However, it was not until 1773 that
this dedicated building was erected for devotion to this popular
saint. Previously, there was an image of San Anton in the hermitage
of San Pedro the Martyr, on the south side of Orce.
The annual fiesta, which is held in honour of San
Anton (link from fiestas above) on the 17th January in this church,
which is the part of the Orce known as barrio de San Anton (the
San Anton district), on the western side of the village.
La Alcazaba de las siete torres
The Fortress Castle with Seven Towers
Although the exact origin of this fortress is unknown
it certainly dates back before the 11th century. Much of the construction
was carried out by the Muslims after the time of the Caliphs. La
Torre del Homenaje (the Keep), around 12 meters high, was built
at the same time as the castle and then rebuilt in the 16th century
after damage caused by an earthquake.
Palacio Belmonte-Segura
The Belmonte-Segura Palace
The Palacio Belmonte-Segura, known more commonly
to the people of Orce as 'la casa grande' (the big house) was built
towards the end of the 18th century by the married couple, Doña
Gumersinda of Segura and Don Luis de Belmonte. It is a fine mansion,
with a beautiful patio and gardens, etc. and is situated in Plaza
Nueva. It is now privately owned and has had an interesting history
of past occupants.
From 1812 to 1825 it was home to Colonel Villalobos,
well known figure from the War of Independence. Another famous name
is that of General, Don Francisco Ballesteros. Like the Segura Palace
of which it is intended to be a copy, it is now divided into two
buildings.
Palacio Segura
Segura Palace
The Segura family were aristocrats whose personal
wealth increased considerably through the lucrative business of
cattle breeding and livestock farming. From around the middle of
the 17th century, they were able to extend their rural 'palace'
or stately home in Orce. It now consists of a baroque-style building
with a particularly pretty patio, impressive wine cellar, and rococo
style chapel. The house has expansive reception rooms decorated
with 17th and 18th century tiles and there is a beautifully tranquil
garden to the rear.
The Palace is normally open to the public between
08:00 and 15:00 Monday to Friday. For further information contact
the Josep Gibert Museum.
Josep Gibert Museum
This museum which was opened in 1983 is housed in
the Keep of the Alcazaba de las Siete Torres. The original collection
was set up by a team of archaeological excavators and the museum
officially inaugurated by the Cultural Minister of the Andalusian
Regional Government. In 1987, the well known palaeontologist, Dr.
Josep Gibert Clols of the Palaeontological Institute in Barcelona
took over. Gibert has dedicated over 30 years of his life to studying
and excavating to find out more accurately when mankind first arrived
in Europe. In Orce man made-made tools have been found that date
back some 1.7 million years and Gibert is in no doubt about the
historic and pre-historic importance of this area. He has written
numerous books and papers on the subject, including his famous book
"El hombre de Orce".
You can see ancient remains from the four main Orce
sites; Venta Micena, Fuente Nueva, Barranco del Paso and Barranco
León. These exhibits are displayed over three rooms: 1. Fauna
2. Complete pieces of remains and 3. Stone implements and human
remains.
New exhibits are sometimes added, as archaeological
digs continue in the area.
Plaza Nueva, 1
Orce
Tel: 958 746 101
Fax: 958 746 183
Opening Hours:
Winter: Every day (except Monday) 11:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 18:00
Summer: Every day: 11:00 - 14:00 and 18:00 - 20:00
Entrance fee: 2 Euros
Cerro de la Virgen
This hill is home to the remains of an ancient Bronze
Age settlement (around 2,500 year BC), where the German archaeologist,
Guillermo Shule discovered dozens of bell shaped glasses and other
culturally significant pieces from prehistoric, Neolithic times.
To walk in this area is to sense the oneness with that population
of so long ago, seeing the remains of the forms of homes. It's impossible
not to notice the bits of ceramics from across the ages in the ground
at your feet.
Venta Micena
It was on this site that the famous skull fragment
was found and is now known world wide as "Hombre de Orce"
(link from the Josep Gibert Museum mentioned above.) This find has
opened the question on how long man has been in Europe. The first
excavation was done in 1982 and the most significant and surprising
feature of this site is the incredible amount of bones found there.
This is attributed to the fact that this was the location of the
hyenas' lair. Over 2,500 fossil samples pertaining to all kinds
of animals have been found on this site alone.
Fuente Nueva
In 1992 when a new electric network installation
was being carried out in this area, a very large number of flint
and dolomite limestone remains were unearthed. These represent many
of the large mammals such as elephants, hippopotamus, rhinoceros,
etc. This find is the most important one of its kind so far.
Barranco del Paso and Barranco León
Both these sites are characterised for the abundance
of stone utensils rather than human fossils that have been found
there. Although there is a lot more scope for excavation here (Permissions
are not always easy to come by) dozens of 'knives' and other rudimentary
implements made by mankind almost two million years ago have been
carefully unearthed from both these sites, during work done in 1991.
Gastronomy in Orce
The renowned segureño lamb is one of the
best dishes to try out in Orce. Many dishes are made with this as
the basic ingredient; in sauce, grilled, with aioli or oven roasted,
this wonderful meat can be sampled in any one of the bars and restaurants
in the and around Orce. Home made cooked meats are also a speciality
worth trying; from chorizo, to black pudding and wonderful spicy
sausages, they are all full of flavour. Hare is another well presented
dish, as well as many other local dishes which will most definitely
be recommended during your visit. Here is a list of some local restaurants:
Mesón Restaurante "La Mimbrera"
Calle Chorreador
Tel: 958 746 148
Bar Restaurante "Molina"
Plaza Nueva, 3
Tel: 958 746 107
Bar Restaurante "El Salero"
Plaza Nueva, 2
Tel: 958 746 151
Bar Restaurante "Asador Alcalzaba"
Calle Fernándo Villalobos
Tel: 958 746 285
Bar Mesón Restaurante "La Bodeguilla"
Calle Ángel, 2
Tel: 958 746 087
Fiestas
San Antón & San Sebastian
From the 16th to the 20th January the village celebrates the ancient
festival of San Antón and San Sebastian. As with so many
deep rooted village traditions, the fiesta is mainly a celebration
of eating, drinking and dancing. This is a particularly colourful
and lively festival, especially for the traditional dress of the
dance group in their black and white trousers and shirts and hats
and multicoloured ribbons and adornments, giving a medieval flavour
to the celebrations.
Lardero Fiesta
On the Thursday before Ash Wednesday is the Lardero fiesta. It is
traditional for the villagers to go into the countryside to eat
Spanish omelette and other traditional foods of the season.
Día de la Cruz
The 3rd of May is Día de la Cruz (Day of the Cross) when
villagers decorate crosses and put them on display all over the
village streets and squares as well as inside houses and caves.
Some of the displays are incredibly colourful and often very inventive.
Virgen de los Dolores
From the 12th to 15th August the village holds the annual fiesta
in honour of the Virgen de los Dolores, patron saint of Orce.
Los Inocentes
The 28th December is the day of Los Inocentes (equivalent to April
Fool's Day). The village custom is for a group of young people to
dress up as those in authority and take over the village, handing
out fines to people in the street - all in good fun.
For further information on Orce, contact:
Tourist Information Office
Calle Tiendas, 18
Tel: 958 746 171
Or the Town Hall:
Ayuntamiento de Puebla de Orce
Plaza Nueva, 1
Tel: 958 746 101
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