By Jo Williams
One of the prettiest villages in the Sierra, Alájar
is overlooked by the towering Peña de Arias Montano, a dramatic
rocky outcrop with a church and belfry. From the Peña is
a stunning view of Alájar, its fields of olive trees and
the gently undulating plain south of the Sierra.
The houses in Alájar huddle around a tiny
paseo (square) and its narrow, cobbled streets radiate outwards
from here. Like the neighbouring village of Linares, many houses
in Alájar have their own unique cobbled portals. There are
many well-preserved houses here with architectural elements typical
of the Sierra. The village has a large church, the 16th-century
Iglesia de San Marcos, its size a reflection of the large population
that lived here in the 18th century when the church was enlarged.
Peña de Arias Montano
Although it can crowded at weekends and holidays,
the Peña de Arias Montano is a tranquil place during the
week with superb views, abundant springs and good picnic spots under
its cork oaks. The Ermita de Nuestra Señora de los Angeles
was built on the site of a Medieval temple and has had several additions,
most notably in the 16th , 18th and 20th centuries. Its interior
was nearly destroyed in the Civil War and the 13th-century figure
of the virgin has been restored. In the 16th century Philip II's
confessor and theologian, Benito Arias Montano, came here on retreat.
In 1576 Philip II himself paid a visit to the Peña and meditated
here in a cave subsequently called the 'Sillita del Rey' (the King's
Seat).
It has a wonderful whitewashed belfry set on the
edge of the cliff away from the church. There is also a small visitor's
centre with information about the life of Arias Montano.
On 8 September there is an exuberant and colourful
pilgrimage here, when the surrounding villagers come on foot and
horseback, with decorated carts, for a day of drinking, eating and
singing.
Accommodation
La Posada is a small, friendly hotel in the centre
of the village providing breakfast made from organic, local ingredients.
Just outside the village, signposted from the Santa Ana road, is
El Molino Río Alájar, with delightful cottages for
rent. Halfway between Alájar and Santa Ana, 2-3km from each
village, is a shady campsite, Camping Cortijo, with a bar. A footpath
linking Santa Ana and Alájar skirts the edge of the campsite.
Restaurants
There are many excellent bars and restaurants here,
including Bar El Corcho, with a unique interior covered in cork
creations. Other good restaurants are El Padrino with a great terrace
and El Molino, housed in a beautifully restored mill.
Walks
From Alájar are several excellent walks.
There is a walk to Linares and on to Aracena via Los Madroñeros.
You can climb the steep footpath up to the Peña
(worth it for the marvellous view) and then continue on to Fuenteheridos
on the GR-47 path.
From the hamlet of El Calabacino west of Alájar
is a 5km footpath up to the small village of Castaño, which
skirts round part of the Cerro de Castaño through chestnut
woodland and has some superb views. This hill has the highest peak
of the Sierra, at 959m. It's possible to return from Castaño,
around the northern section of the Cerro Castaño if you want
to make a full circle, heading on the track towards Fuenteheridos,
called La Urraleda. This brings you out onto the Fuenteheridos-Peña
road. Turn right towards the Peña and you come to viewpoint,
El Puerto de Alájar (880m), with magnificent views south
of the Sierra. The road winds sharply down to the Peña and
back to Alájar.
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