By Jo Williams
Cortegana's castle dominates the skyline from miles
around and is particularly dramatic with the sunset behind it. The
castle also offers one of the best views of the Sierra and is a
good introduction to the town nestling beneath it.
Like the castles at Aroche
and Cumbres
Mayores, the castillo in Cortegana was built
in 1293 under Sancho IV, as part of the defensive line of fortifications
called the Banda Gallega, to warn of a Portuguese incursion. This
relatively compact castle has been heavily restored and its interior
is embellished with suits of armour and heavy, medieval-looking
furniture.
The castle, its hilltop and the streets leading
up to it are the ideal location for a four-day Medieval festival
held at the end of August. Highlights include jousting tournaments
and a spectacular re-enactment of the battle between the Moors and
Christians, as well as a large atmospheric market, bars, music and
singing.
There are two casinos (working men's bars - but
you don't have to be male, or employed, to enter) in the town; the
best is located in the Plaza de la Constitución. A cavernous
Art Deco building, it is beautifully tiled and even has a grand
sitting room with a huge fireplace. The other casino is on the small,
attractive square Plaza del Divino Salvador, lined with orange trees.
The square is dominated by the 16th-century Iglesia del Divino Salvador.
You can't miss the marisquería on the N433
near the Guardia Civil building, a good restaurant to visit for
a change from the usual pork dishes on offer in the Sierra. Bar
El Nogal on the Almonaster road south of the centre, Avenida de
las Minas, has the terrace with the best view in Cortegana, looking
out to the castle and the surrounding countryside.
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