by Dee McMath
Zufre is described as 'a white village hidden amongst
the clouds and nature' and is just an hour's drive north of Seville,
in the middle of the Sierra de Aracena
National Park in the province of Huelva. Due to its geographical
situation and altitude, you can expect rain and snow in winter.
The colder months see an average temperature of 10ºC and in
summer the average is 25ºC. Once you have taken in the breathtaking
view from the highest point, you may wish to explore the area on
one of the many nature walks, or even go rock climbing, mountain
biking, horseback riding, bird watching or fishing. Zufre is also
the perfect place to spend a few days just relaxing and soaking
up the natural surroundings, which are steeped in a not-so-calm
history, up to the turbulence of last Inquisition and beyond.
Historical Overview
Since Neolithic times man has been hunting and gathering
in the forest in the area of Zufre. Knives and chisels found in
the vicinity have been dated back to the Bronze Age. Activities
in the past history range from farming and cattle breeding to mining.
In the 5th Century at the time of the fall of the Roman Empire,
little historic evidence is available, but there are traces of the
Muslim influence of the 8th Century. Proof of this exists in the
form of an official 14th century stamp with he spelling of the place
name as "Xufre", which is of Arabic origin.
Zufre became one of the most important strategic
areas in the region, due to its access to Seville from the mountains
and so a fortified wall was built around it, making it into what
has been described as an Eagle's Nest. During the Early Middle Ages,
Zufre was officially classified as a Town and that was when the
fortified walls were built to ward off the pillaging raids by the
Portuguese invaders. The widely dispersed population of the time
all gathered within the town's walls for protection and safety
After a turbulent historic time, the beginning of
the 20th century brought hope to Zufre. The advent of the train
line connected the previously isolated hills to the outside world.
The construction of the mining track, Cala-San Juan de Aznalfarache
went through Zufre and La Junta and was used to transport both goods
and passengers. Following the prosperous times of the rail connection,
many people left the area and it became forgotten and neglected
- something that today's population of Zufre intend to put right.
Architectural points of interest in
Zufre
The town centre is formed around four main squares;
the church square, La Plaza de las Quebradas, La Plaza de la Constitución
and the Town Hall Square. The Town Hall building
was finished in 1570 and has a main façade of three arches
on columns, which open out onto the plaza. The building still houses
the offices of the local council and the Mayor and there are still
two remaining seats, which were used by the Tribunal of
the Holy Spanish Inquisition. Next to the Ayuntamiento
is a fountainhead called "Fuente del Consejo"
(the fountain of advice). This fountain has provided the weary traveller
with fresh mountain spring water since the Roman times.
It is well worth taking a walk through the town
to the church square. Stop in the middle and look around you and
above to see the hundreds of swallows and housemartins flying to
their nests. If you are visiting between March and late May you
will also enjoy the sweet scent of the orange blossom from the trees
outside the church.
The church of "Purísima Concepción",
was built in the 16th century on the site of a gothic Moorish temple,
which in turn was constructed on the site of a small rural mosque
during the Muslim occupation. In 1757 a tower had to be rebuilt
on to the church after the damage caused by the terrible Lisbon
earthquake.
Activities & celebrations
The Monthly Farmer's Market
The market is held every 1st Saturday of the month. In July,
August and September it will start in the early evening to avoid
the midday sun. This is your chance to buy many local organic food
products (including excellent olive oil), and hand made goods, such
as leather bags and accessories. There is live entertainment for
children, making this a complete family day out.
Easter Week
Easter week is an excellent time to visit the Zufre, which comes
alive with religious processions and celebrations.
The Zufre 'Romería' and Fair
End of August to the beginning of September.
Religious festivals are what people live for in Andalucian villages.
Zufre is no different and the place really comes to life during
the September 'Feria' celebrations. Starting with a procession,
on the last Sunday of August, where an image of the patron saint,
Virgin Mary, is carried from the village church to a chapel some
12 kilometers away, the whole town comes out to take part in the
pilgrimage. The women wear traditional Flamenco dresses and the
men ride their beautifully turned out Andaluz horses. When the Virgin
arrives at the Chapel of Nuestra Señora del Puerto, the men
ride their horses at a fast pace around the church in celebration
and in honour of the Virgin. The horses are once again protagonists
later in the evening when they race through the narrow streets of
the village leading up to the Plaza de la Quebrada, where onlookers
line the streets to watch.
Then, the first weekend of September sees the village
Feria, very much like a mini version of the massive Seville Fair
in April. Many activities are planned during these days in which
the village never sleeps. There is traditional singing, cultural
gatherings, bullfights and sporting events. Stalls known as 'casetas'
are set up where you can try the exquisite 'Jamon Serrano' and sip
a glass of Sangria while you watch - or even join in - signing and
dancing Sevillanas!
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