By Dee McMath...
In the north of Málaga
Province, about 50 kilometres from Málaga City (and 20
kilometres from Antequera),
at the foothills of the Sierra de Gracia, is the
welcoming village of Archidona. Bordering on the Granada Province,
Archidona sits at the very centre of Andalucia, 660 metres above
sea level. This rural community dominates the valley over which
it presides. It is at the meeting point of east and west Andalucia
and with the advent of the excellent new road systems now in place,
it is easily accessible and yet still picturesque and tranquil.
 The municipality covers an area of approximately
187 kilometres and has a population of around 10,000. Although,
as with many Andalucian villages in the 1970's, there was a grand
exit from the countryside and into the larger cities, Archidona
is once again a thriving little town, whose economy still depends
to a large extent on the olive groves that surround the area, which
yield a very high quality of olive oil.
Geographical location
(Latitude 37o 03' - Longitude -4o 23')
From
Recent Past to Present
Although Archidona has grown from a tiny village
into a small town, many of today's inhabitants still remember the
days when they played marbles and hopscotch in the narrow streets.
In the area knows as "Los Caños de las Monjas",
older residents in Archidona reminisce about gathering together
in the hope of finding work in the olive groves, being paid at the
rate of 15 pesetas a day. Woman took their washing to "Los
Caños" - the public wash place. In those days,
if a widow or widower remarried, the young people of the village
would stand outside the house of the newly weds and make a dreadful
din, often resulting in the groom chasing them down the road, firing
rifle shots in the air to scare them off. Things have changed in
Archidona and there is more modern housing and good facilities,
but the general layout and structure of the town has remained largely
unchanged.
The Town Hall has recently initiated a Microbus
service, providing public transport around the town and to the outlying
districts of Huertas del Río and Estación
de la Romera. The Microbus takes 16 passengers and to begin
with will be operating only in the mornings. The journey cost is
around 80 cents (60 cents for senior citizens) and it makes living
in this small town even more appealing to those who do not drive.
The local authorities have also recently received a proposal to
build a large complex for senior citizens in the Huertas del Río
area. If this is approved, it will provide residences and apartments,
with clinic, restaurant and laundry area, plus nearby hotel for
relatives. The promoters hope to be able to go ahead with their
project, since they expect interest from residents of many countries.
House prices are generally lower in this area than
those along the busy Costa del Sol nearby and landscape with the
high mountain peak backdrop and the sloping meadows and undulating
olive groves, make it a perfect countryside retreat. The natural
surroundings and interesting historical monuments from a rich and
ancient past also make this a popular area for the rural tourist,
with an annual level of visitors of around 3,000 people. Favourite
beauty spots and picnic areas are in the area of the lakes Grande,
Chica and Hoz de Arroyo Martín and amongst the many places
of historic interest to visit are the Virgen de Gracia Sanctuary,
which is built on the ruins of a Moorish Mosque
and the San Antonio Hermitage dating back to the
18th century.
History
The history of Archidona goes back as far as prehistoric
times. Traces have been found of the existence of the Turdulo people
from about 1,500 B.C., with the Phoenicians following on and giving
the place the name of "Escua" meaning the "Principal
Head". It is the Phoenicians who are said to have begun the
construction of the protective walls of the town. This defensive
barrier, led to it being called '"Arx Dómina" at
the time of the Roman period. Later still the Moors called it "Medina
Arxiduna", and hence to its present name of Archidona.
The
end of the 9th and beginning of the 10th Century saw witness to
the Mozarab rebellion, led by Muladj Omar Ben Hafsun between the
Muladíes and the Berbers. Archidona also played host to the
start of the Omeya dynasty in Andalucia - an important era in Spanish
history.
The
first Caliph of Cordoba brought peace back to the town under the
rule of Abd el-Rahman III. Archidona benefited from the Cordoban
influence and affluent times followed, with healthy trading and
agriculture for the people. However by the end of the 11th century,
under the rule of Taifa, the town came on hard times, finally resulting
in much of the land being abandoned. The resurgence came in the
first part of the 13th century when Archidona came under the rule
of the Nazari Kingdom of Granada. The silk trade brought prosperity
back to the town. But then, with the Christians moving in to the
area in the 14th century, Archidona - like many towns and villages
in the area - suffered badly from looting and pillaging. The shape
of the town today is traced back to the 16th century, when the first
main urban centre, Villa Baja, was built by the Ureña family.
This
short resume of the village's long and eventful history gives an
insight into why the inhabitants are proud of their heritage. In
1980 Archidona was declared a Village of Historic and Artistic Interest.
Monuments & Places of Historical Interest
Moorish Castle
At the time of the Moorish occupation
it was impenetrable, with its three layers of ramparts protecting
it and with an imposing rock face behind it.
The Hermitage of La Virgen de Gracia
This hermitage (ermita) and sanctuary is dedicated to the devotion
of the patron saint, La Virgen de la Gracia. This is a unique site
in Andalucia because it has been built on the original site of the
Arabic Mosque, while all others were destroyed.
The Santa Ana Church
This was the first church built in Villa Baja at the beginning
of the 16th Century and then rebuilt in the 19th Century. The Church
stands out with its triangular tower and is well worth a visit to
see both the wealth of artistic and religious heritage inside the
church.
Plaza de la Victoria
This is main pulse of the village, where main social events
are held. Two important buildings looking into the square are the
Town Hall (previously housing the co-operative granary) and the
Church of la Victoria, with its notable bell gable.
Convento de las Míninas
The nuns continue to live their simple and reclusive life within
the walls of this old building and their church has a sense of deep,
intimate devotion. On the outside, you can see the brick work of
the baroque tower with its splendid green and white ceramic spire.
The Church of el Nazareno & Escuelas Pías
This is both church and training school for the Nazarene brotherhood.
You can be seen these devotees in processions during Easter week.
Founded around the middle of the 18th Century, the main door of
the college and the clock tower are distinctive.
Plaza Ochavada
The unusually designed octagonal plaza was built in the 18th
Century and in the French style. Inside this 'Andalucian Patio'
red brick contrasts with the bright white wash of the walls, reflecting
the style of the local architecture.
Hermitage of San Antonio
The hermitage (ermita) dates back to the 18th Century.
Fiestas & Festivals
In typical Andalucian style, the "Archidoneses"
celebrate many colourful fiestas throughout the year.
Carnaval
At the beginning of February, as in all towns and villages of Andalucia,
Carnaval time is celebrated, with special parties organised and
people dressing up in fancy dress.
Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week)
A perfect time to visit Archidona and see the beautiful processions
going through the streets, with the whole town looking on.
San Isidro
The 15th of May is the day of the Patron, San Isidro.
La Feria del Perro
At the end of May or the first weekend of June Archidona celebrates
a three day dog show, "La Feria del Perro". This
is a big event on the calendar and national and international champion
show dogs are brought to compete from far afield. There are all
sorts of exhibitions, such as the Police dogs being put through
their paces and demonstrations of the amazing skill of sheep dogs
and their trainers. This wonderful canine event began in 1993 and
has become increasingly popular each year since then. It is a must
for all dog lovers and for anyone who enjoys a really interesting
day out.
Fiesta of San Antonio
From 13th to 15th June is the fiesta of San Antonio.
San Juan
On June 24th is the celebration of the night of San Juan, with a
fireworks display marking the start of the fiesta around midnight
on the 23rd.
Fiesta of San Aurelio
Towards the end of July (around the 27th) there is the fiesta of
San Aurelio.
Village Fair & Fiestas of the Virgen
de Gracia
August the 14th to 18th sees the main village Fair and Fiestas of
the Virgen de Gracia (Patron Saint of Archidona).
The Tourist Office (Oficina
de Turismo)
Plaza de Ochavada No. 2. Tel: 952 716 479
Opening hours:
Tuesday - Friday 10:00 - 14:00
Saturday & Sunday 11:00 - 14:00
CLOSED MONDAYS
Local Gastronomy
Amongst
the many typical dishes you can try while you are in Archidona are:
Gazpacho (delicious and nutritious cold soup), "Gachas
de Mosto" (sweet pancakes with grape juice and nut mix
filling), "Guiso de patatas" home made potato
stew, "Porra" (a thicker version of Gazpacho
and served with chopped up boiled egg, Serrano ham and diced bacon).
Shopping
You will find some handmade baskets, articles made
of cane and picture framing. There are also some factories that
make wooden doors and furniture and workshops which produce wrought
iron gates, garden furniture, etc.
Madertapia
Furniture & Fittings, 500m2 of all styles of furniture on show.
Polígono Industrial, Parcela 17, Archidona
Tel: 952 717 523
Sillero
Wooden Doors, etc
Poligono Industrial, Parcela 36-B, Archidona
Tel: 952 714 982
Restaurante Las Viñas
Specialises in roast meats and typical home made dishes. Also
caters for groups and large celebrations up to 600 people.
Ctra. Jerez-Cartagena, Km 181
Tel: 952 714 941 |
La Carbonería
(Tavern / Bar)
Specialises in roast meats, lamb, pork, cured ham and cheeses,
Rioja Wine.
Calle San Jose, 6, Archidona
Tel: 952 716 525 |
Escua
Hotel / Restaurant (2 Stars)
Ctra Sevilla-Granada Km 176, Archidona
Tel: 952 717 142 |
Hostal Cervera
(One Star Hostel)
Avda Pablo Picasso, 38, Archidona
Tel: 952 714 827 |
Cortijo Sureco
(Rural Accommodation)
Ctra Salinas-Villanueva, Archidona
Tel: 952 393 443 |
Hostal Megías
(1 Star Hostel)
Bda. La Estación, Archidona |
Hostal Las Palomas
(1 Star Hostel)
Ctra Jerez-Cartagena, Km 177, Archidona
Tel: 952 714 326 |
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