Santa Catalina, church tower.
This municipal district is never more than three kilometres wide at any one point. Yet its length of just over 15km cuts right across the region's geographic divide. Marked at its northern extremity by the rugged limestone peak of Jarastepar (1,425m), it drops down to the watered basin of the Alto Genal. The land then stretches south up into the reddish wilderness of the lower Sierras Bermeja, passing Jardon (1,156m) on its way.
Civilisation sprouted wherever the river Genal flows through the district. The village, which clings to the hillside, has a population of less than 300.
The village is reached through woodlands of pine, cork oak and chestnut trees that are still an important source of income. Entering the village, the best parking can be near the Bar Torrichela. This bar has an interesting box as you enter the building and all the locals leave their mobile phones in it. It sounds as though it is something out of the old Wild West, but is a solution to the remoteness of the place. There is no mobile phone uplink inside the bar, so if the phone rings in the box, at least it can be heard.
There is a good view of the village from this mobile-free haven. Looking down, the pueblo has three districts, Alto where you are stood, Fuente and Ereta. The roads are like terraces built into the hillside and support the houses as they wind their way down the hill. A confusing jumble of houses and winding streets that lead to dead-ends and steps. Many of the buildings have been rebuilt in modern times and someone obviously had the monopoly on chimneys. These reach out from the irregular rooftops and are of the type you would expect to find in a modern urbanisation. The bar is a friendly place, though being one of the few watering holes in the area, it need not be. Full of locals, it is surprising to hear the odd word of English spoken, when they detect an outsider. From this vantagepoint, the obvious point that catches your eye is the cemetery and church.
As usual, the main public building is the church, Santa Catalina. Dating from 1505, its only feature surviving from this period is the Mudejar style tower and one supporting arch, hidden by a lower flat ceiling. The simple single nave was remodelled on a number of occasions including 1604, when the small church at Moclon was abandoned. During the War of Independence the French caused serious damage to the church, which needed a major overhaul. Its latest rebuild in the early 1940s was as a result of attacks during the Civil War. Not simply by artillery and street battles, but by anarchists who used the war to launch an anti-clerical campaign against the church itself, which had such a strong hold on the community’s way of life.
The side aisle to the left of the main nave is now used at the Cine Club for the local community. Probably now only a rarely-used public room with a TV, you can imagine the excitement 50 years ago when a travelling cinema came by. A large sheet would be erected and the whole community would congregate on a Saturday night to watch the latest Franco era film. The priest would have presided as the spiritual and culture officer, watching over his flock. His revenge would have taken place the next morning, when everyone paraded for church, to listen to one of his sermons on the evils of declining morale values. A kiss in a film today is seemingly innocent, whereas 50 years ago it was considered highly embarrassing.
The church is situated by the Cemetery, which is unusually close to the community. In leaving the dead to rest and superstition, cemeteries are normally found away from the centre. Like the village, it is within a confined space, of different levels and heights. A walk around the village takes roughly 20 minutes. In a quite corner you will find street names such as calle Franco, which indicates that time is slow in these parts.
On the outskirts of town heading towards Cartajima, a rural hotel (Hotel Bandalero) has recently opened. It blends in well with the village and is only waiting for time to weather its paint. Just past the hotel on the right, a good track that leads down to the river and back up onto the Pujerra - Igualeja road. The river at this point has protected trout fishing rights and permits are required. However, it gives another beautiful access point to this mysterious river.
Min: 20C