Sulphur is the ninth most abundant
element of the universe and is one of natures great jokes on the
human race. Known to the ancients as "Brimstone" it is
one of the elements essential to life as a constituent of various
biologically active compounds. Pure sulphur is odourless but fun
loving nature frequently combines it with hydrogen to produce hydrogen
sulphide which has the odour of rotten eggs. Nevertheless sulphur
has long been renowned for its medicinal properties. Bathing in
sulphur springs to maintain or improve the condition of the skin
or to cure some epidermal complaint has been common since antiquity.
In the valley below Manilva,
close but mercifully not too close to the renowned Roman Oasis Restaurant,
are the Roman Sulphur baths of Hedionda. The high sulphur content
is due to a sulphur spring which flows from a limestone outcrop
above the valley. It attracted the attention of the Romans 2000
years ago and an arched bathing complex was created of which four
chambers still exist, although other adjacent water channels can
be seen which suggest the complex was once much larger. During his
period as governor of southern Spain between 63 and 60 BC no less
a person than Julius Caesar is said to have cured himself of a skin
infection by bathing here.
Sadly
in an artless attempt at preservation, a modern concrete canopy
has been erected over what survives of the original Roman structure
which can still be seen from the entrance by those not wishing to
take the plunge. A small first chamber leads via an archway and
tunnel to a much larger inner chamber. Hardy-types not put off by
the all-pervading stench of rotten eggs still come to immerse themselves
in the cool, murky, health-giving waters and to take away (although
there are signs saying no to) samples of the alluvial mud for use
as face packs and poultices.
In
fact the baths are quite popular on fine Sunday afternoons. Families
from the village picnic on the surrounding grass under the shade
of eucalyptus trees and the children take over the baths. Thankfully
during the week this archeological site is deserted, except when
the webmaster arrived with his camera he chanced upon a well known
local restaurateur swimming au-natural, as it were. Those photographs
will not be published on Andalucia.com
The
site is ill maintained and terribly neglected. Presumably because
it is actually located within the municipality of Casares but can
only be accessed and enjoyed from Manilva. There is talk of a luxury
Spa Hotel complex to be constructed although the graffiti clearly
warns against this idea. Visitors to the proposed hotel would be
well advised to check the wind direction before opening the balcony
window.
Across
the river form the baths there are ruins of 18th century farm buildings
which re-used Roman masonry. It is clear that some kind of service
settlement did evolve around the complex . To find these follow
the river downstream about 75m until you come to an old but recently
restored single-arch aqueduct. This was used to help irrigate the
fertile valley further down and its course can be traced for much
of the way. This irrigation system is certainly Roman in origin
but much of the infrastructure was rebuilt during the Moorish period.
Two
km upstream towards Casares, there are some interesting mills and
irrigation channels Access is gained by following the stream bed
and this makes a pleasant walk as the river valley closes in. The
valley is made for the adventurous hiker. It ultimately connects
with the mills of Casares but it is an all day walk and scramble.
The baths can be reached carefully by two wheel drive car by turning
off the N340 by the "Grand Bar" just west of Sabinillas
and following the poor condition road up the valley and under the
new toll motorway viaduct.
From Gaucin take the small turn to the quarry from the motorway
interchange roundabout just north of Manilva. Pass the quarry down
the hill and take a rough track on the right hand side that goes
under the new toll motorway viaduct.
GPS
Location: 36º 23' 48'' N 5º 15' 42'' W
Roman
Aqueduct
Along
side the road between the coast and the baths you will see a 100m
long surviving stretch of an aqueduct reputed to be of Roman origin.
It does not span the whole valley but was used to drive a large
water wheel as part of a mill complex. A rustic cottage now stands
on the foundations of the Roman/Moorish mill house. Roman brick
can be seen through the structure. Water to power the mill was almost
certainly channelled off by aqueducts at the Roman baths which kept
the water elevated until it reached the mill.
