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December and January are the main months for the Olive harvest in Andalucia
This vía verde (greenway) covers
55km between Jaen and
the Guadajoz river, where it joins the Vía
Verde of the Subbética. It is suitable for walkers, cyclists
and wheelchair users.
This greenway follows part of the 120km-long Jaen-Puente
Genil railway line used for transporting olive oil from the late
19th century onwards, linking Jaen with Malaga
and Algeciras
and opening up the market for oil. Dubbed the ´tren de aceite´
(oil train), it was the first time olive oil could be moved in bulk.
The line also carried coal from the Belmez mine, as well as lead
and other minerals from the mines in Linares, to the port in Malaga.
But the railway was unprofitable and closed in 1985.
The Route
The vía verde begins in the north of Jaen
city, near the Fuentezuelas polideportivo (sports complex) at the
end of Calle Fuente del Alamillo. It runs alongside a railway still
in operation, the Jaen-Espeluy line, until around Km 1.5. The vía
verde starts to climb to Martos, skirting the hilly Sierra de la
Grana and the peak of Jabalcuz (1,614m). From this stretch of the
route there are great views of Jaen city. At Km 2 the route goes
under the city's ring road and then passes a fountain at the Jaen-Torredonjimeno
crossroads at Km 6.3, a good place to stock up with water.
From
here you can take a detour to follow the well-signposted Ruta
Arqueológica de Los Torreones (Los Torreones Archaeological
Route), made up of seven defensive towers and castles that date
from Medieval times.
In
this part of the countryside there are many olive groves, interspersed
with farms that have their own olive presses for producing oil.
At Km 8.8 is a derelict loading platform in a siding, which was
used by trains carrying gypsum from a nearby quarry.
The
route crosses the Torredelcampo road just before the greenway's
first station of Torredelcampo at Km 11, a good place for a stop.
Next is a 333m-long tunnel; although well-lit you have to watch
out for the occasional car or motorbike. Use of these is prohibited
along the vía verde but local residents sometimes use the
tunnel as a short cut.
At
Km 12 is a 104m-long bridge over a river bordered by olive groves,
with superb vistas over the surrounding countryside from here and
from the next, shorter bridge 1km later.
Torredonjimeno
is the next village, with a station at Km 15.2. There is picnic
area but the 19th-century station building itself is in a bad state
of disrepair. Just beyond Torredonjimeno the route crosses the N321
twice.
Between
Torredonjimeno and Martos is a gentle climb through olive groves.
Martos is overshadowed by its spectacular peña, a rocky outcrop
towering 350m high over the village crowned by a ruined fortress.
Martos marks the highest point of the vía verde, at 650m,
and from here onwards it is virtually all downhill. At Km 23 is
the village's old station; unlike the building at Torredonjimeno
this one has been well preserved.
Just
outside Martos the greenway goes under the N321 through a tunnel
and then begins to descend in sweeping curves before crossing the
road again via a bridge several kilometres later. The route loops
round the hill called the Cerro de la Capellanía to the Río
Salado valley, crossing the river over an impressive 208m-long bridge
at Km 34.
Drawing
closer to the foothills of the Sierras Subbéticas, the vía
verde goes across another magnificent bridge spanning the Higueral
river, before arriving at a remote station, Vado-Jaén at
Km 37, 7km from the nearest village. Its only purpose was as an
intersection for trains. From here for 2km it is slightly uphill
until the route meets the N321 again; this time the road crosses
the greenway via a bridge.
The
countryside now opens out with superb views across the Víboras
valley and the peak of the Ahillo mountain at 1,455m. At Km 42 the
route crosses the Víboras river via another grand bridge,
224m long and constructed high over the valley. If you look down
from the bridge you can see a much older bridge, dating from Medieval
times.
After
the bridge, the vía verde passes a disused quarry which used
to supply materials for constructing the railway. There are two
more bridges, both 70m long, over the Chaparral and Esponela rivers,
at Km 45 and Km 46. The last station on this route is at Alcaudete,
at Km 48, a shady picnic spot in an olive grove. The village itself
is 5km away. The greenway goes over the N321; be careful here since
you have to cross the road directly as there is no bridge or underpass.
At
Km 50 the route passes the Laguna
Honda Natural Reserve, an important wetland area best seen from
the viewpoint on the vía verde itself. Apart from the summer
when the lake usually dries up, it has numerous birds including
purple gallinules and white-headed ducks.
From
here the greenway zigzags in sharp curves around the Desjarradero
hill and over a 83m-long viaduct at the Barranco de Desjarradero
at Km 52. The next and last viaduct on the route spans 200m over
the Guadajoz river.
From
this point, the greenway continues into Cordoba
province as the Vía
Verde of the Subbética.
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