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This
route starts at San Juan del Puerto northeast of Huelva city and
ends 36km further north in Valverde del Camino, passing through
a region of gently rolling hills known as the Andévalo. The
route is surfaced in places and is suitable for walkers, cyclists,
wheelchair users and horse riders.
The vía verde follows a former railway line,
the Ferrocarril del Buitrón, which was used from the 1860s
until the 1940s by the mining companies to transport minerals from
the mines in Mina Concepción 71km south to the port at San
Juan del Puerto, located on the Tinto river. It was part of a network
of tracks constructed by British engineers to link San Juan del
Puerto´s port to many mines in the area north of Huelva city,
the most important being that of Riotinto.
The Route
The
route starts in San Juan del Puerto, near the elegant neo-Mudéjar
train station, where barges used to be loaded at the Muelle del
Tinto with minerals. Close to the Muelle are the Salinas del Tinto,
former saltpans in an area of marshland rich in birdlife. You go
through the town and over the motorway, before following a route
parallel to the N435, through fields of sunflowers and cereals south
of the agricultural town of Trigueros. Just before Trigueros,
you depart from the N435 roadside and go through the outskirts of
the town at Km 9. Once the train track was outside of town, but
Trigueros has grown since the railway was abandoned in 1969 and
now the old station has been demolished and another building has
been constructed in its place.
If
you have time, you can do an interesting 8km detour from Trigueros,
to the largest and most important prehistoric dolmen in the province
and one of the biggest in the Iberian Peninsula. The 20m-long Dolmen
de Soto, which dates from the Bronze Age, was discovered by Armando
de Soto in 1922 and is on farmland owned by the Finca Lobita. Accessible
by bicycle or on foot, it is located east of Trigueros and is clearly
signposted from the town. You can visit Monday to Friday from 9am
to 2pm.
The
Dolmen de Soto is one of three in the area, the other two being
the Dolmen del Labradillo, signposted off the N435 north of Beas
and, further north, the Dolmen de Pozuelo between Valverde and Zalamea.
Once
past Trigueros, the vía verde becomes more leafy, passing
through cork oak woodland and gently descending to the site of the
former train station of Beas at Km 15, 3km from Beas itself.
You go over a bridge crossing the Arroyo Renegoso, whose waters
used to power a series of watermills used for grinding wheat and
barley. Around here is the Ruta de los Molinos (the Route of the
Watermills), a picnic area with barbecue pits and information boards
on the history of the mills. One mill has been restored to working
order. At the side of the Molino de la Llave is a leafy riverside
sendero (footpath) that passes six watermills, several of them also
renovated.
Beas
has a pleasant main square lined with a few bars, which is a good
place to stop for tapas. It also boasts a fine Gothic-Mudéjar
church, the Iglesia de San Bartolomé, on the same plaza.
Beyond
Beas the terrain becomes steeper and the route goes through extensive
plantations of eucalyptus and pine trees. After Km 21 where there
is the Pallares small station, there is an increasing amount of
cork oaks. At Km 27 is the Venta Eligio station, followed by the
site of the former station Los Pinos de Valverde, named after this
hamlet surrounded by pine trees, some of which were burnt in the
forest fires of 2004 that ravaged this area.
Huelva
city dwellers keen to escape the humid coast have built many spacious
holiday homes up here in the relatively cooler shade of Los Pinos.
The vía verde crosses the N435 and runs alongside it on an
elevated section.
The
next and last town on the route is Valverde del Camino, which
grew in importance in the 19th century when it became the main centre
for mining villages in the area such as Río Tinto, El Buitrón
and Mina Concepción. You can still see the former mining
company offices (now converted into a music school), the grand Casa
de la Dirección that also housed British railway engineers,
next to the 19th-century station, and a water tower used for filling
steam engines.
In
Valverde there are many shops devoted to selling the town´s
renowned high-quality leatherwear, including custom-made footwear.
Here you can buy a pair of riding boots (botos rocieros), an essential
item for a romería such as the famous El
Rocío Pilgrimage, also in Huelva province, or a leather
wide-brimmed hat, a useful accessory for anyone undertaking a vía
verde in Andalucia. In recognition of the town´s handicraft
history, a new museum has opened, the Museo de Etnográfico
y de las Artesanías (Ethnographic and Crafts Museum), dedicated
to the woodwork and leatherwork traditions of the town. Also check
out the quirky shop, Artesanía Bermejo, which sells an incredible
variety of bells for animals.
Another
vía verde continues 35km north to Ríotinto, the Vía
Verde de Ríotinto, where there is a fascinating mining
museum and trips on a steam train every weekend to continue the
train theme. Linked to this is the Vía
Verde del Odiel, which follows the course of the Odiel river
from Zalamea la Real to the abandoned mining village of Mina
Concepción.
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