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by Lee Gutcher

Málaga

Málaga city is not a popular tourist attraction despite the large amount of tourists which pass through its airport. Whilst it does not have any outstanding monuments it is an atmospheric, historical city well worth taking the time to visit.

Málaga is the second largest city in Andalucia, and also one of the poorest, which is noticeable in the outskirts of the city. But once in the centre of the city there are many quarters of the city which are a delight to explore. The people of Málaga are also famous for being amongst the most friendly in the region. The city also has a decent beach if you want to take a rest before or after you flight.

See the Málaga home page.

Arrival & Accommodation
Both the train and bus station are on the outskirts, but within walking distance of the city centre. Most attractions are within walking distance, although the Gibralfaro can be an uphill struggle when the sun is shining.

Accommodation is not a problem outside of the major holidays. The area around the cathedral offers numerous budget options.

There are no truly 'must see' monuments in Malaga, but many which are worth visiting.

  • The Alcazaba
  • The Gibralfaro
  • The Cathedral
  • Casa Natal de Picasso

The best way to enjoy Malaga is to wander its streets and soak in the atmosphere of its people.

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Ronda

The Pueblos Blancos, or white towns are places of great beauty. Set in rural mountainous terrain each town offers spectacular picturesque views. The most famous of these white towns is Ronda.

The best way to appreciate the White Towns is by car. Winding along the mountainous roads any route provides great reward and beautiful scenery. Watch out for other Pueblos Blancos such as Gaucin, Casares, and Jimena de la Frontera. Without a car these places would be difficult to get to, only Ronda has good transport links. Taking the train to Ronda from Algeciras is the best method of entry.

Ronda itself is built on an isolated ridge and split by a huge gorge of over 100m. The gorge is spanned by a breathtaking bridge, which claimed its creator's own life as he peered over to admire his work. It is the stunning mountain scenery and natural beauty which pulls in the masses of tourists, and few leave disappointed.

The maze-like town itself is a pleasant stroll. You might also want to descend the hundreds of steps to the bottom of the gorge from the Casa Del Rey. There are also some well preserved 13th Century Arab Baths on the riverbank.

The Plaza de Toros is certainly worth a visit. You can stroll at will around the oldest bullring in Spain. It was here where modern bullfighting developed, all of which is explained in the excellent free information guide. There is also a museum with costume and some rather bloodthirsty pictures.

See the Ronda home page.

Cadiz

Cadiz does not have a big draw card to pull in the crowds unlike the other major cities of Andalucia. It is worth spending a day there if you can, but if you're short of time it is an obvious candidate to drop from the itinerary.

Cadiz is an historic port and one of the oldest cities in Europe. Although it is not a large tourist resort it is surprisingly open and friendly, especially for a port. Cadiz was the location of the drawing of a liberal constitution in 1812. The city has kept this left wing tradition and was strongly opposed to General Franco. The Carnival in February is one of the biggest in Andalucia, and certainly the most infamous, with riotous partying. Cadiz is also famous for its sea food with fried fish being a speciality.

Finding your way around Cadiz is not a problem. The natural bay is very compact and it is difficult to get lost as you are never more than 2 streets away from being able to see the sea. However the helpful Tourist Office have painted a pink line around the city. Follow this line around the city to see all the major sights.

See the Cadiz Home page

Accommodation
Accommodation is plentiful. Cadiz has an excellent youth hostel which even when full the friendly proprietor will point you in the direction of an alternative.

There are no must see monuments in Cadiz, just a handful of curious places worth a look.

  • Archaeology and Fine Arts Museum
  • Oratorio de Santa Cruz
  • Cathedral Nueva
  • Oratori de San Feligo Neri

Jerez de la Frontera

Jerez is the centre of the sherry triangle, and it is the opportunity to visit the huge sherry bodegas that draw large amounts of tourists every year.

Besides the delightful tours of the bodegas there are few reasons to warrant a longer stay in the city. There are the usual cathedrals, churches and castles but they compare poorly to those you can readily see elsewhere in Andalucia. It is definitely worth a day visit though.

See the Jerez de la Frontera home page.

Arriving and Accommodation
The train and bus stations are situated next door to each other and there are plentiful budget accommodation options located within a few minutes walk.

Must See

  • Sherry Bodegas

By Choice

  • Cathedral - This 18th Century Gothic / Renaissance Cathedral is a disappointment in comparison to others in Andalucia.
  • Alcazar - This largely reconstructed castle is worth a look, complete with bathhouse and gardens. Also in the compound is a camera obscura which uses lens technology to give a tour of the entire city.
  • Barrio de Santiago - is the old gypsy quarter and a pleasant stroll with some interesting churches.
  • Archaeological Museum - is inferior to those in Cordoba and Granada but definitely worth a look.
  • The May Horse Fair

Seville

Seville is unsurprisingly the most touristy destination in Andalucia. The signs are obvious: the shops are open at convenient times; the waiters approach agreeable, and there's the sweet smell of horse manure everywhere you go.

Seville is a must on any Spanish as well as Andalucian tour. The city overflows with the romantic gaiety and theatrical intensity of life synonymous with Andalucian culture. Whilst the wonderful architectural monuments are a must see, it is wandering the narrow colourful streets of the Barrio de Santa Cruz where the real Seville experience is to be had.

See Seville home page.

Accommodation
If you arrive by bus the Barrio Santa Cruz is a short walk away. Here there is a dense concentration of hostels, all of which are within walking distance of the main architectural sights. The area is quiet at night with only a few tapas bars and restaurants staying open late. Head to the centre or across the river for a more lively evening. Accommodation is impossible to find during Semana Santa and the Feria de Avril unless you book months in advance.

See Seville hotels page

Must See

  • Cathedral - The biggest Gothic church in the world.
  • The Giralda - Fine Islamic Architecture - the symbol of the city.
  • Alcazaba - If you see one castle in Andalucia make it this one.
  • Barrio de Santa Cruz - Discover the real Seville.

By Choice

  • Plaza de Espana - Huge Plaza with rather grandiose architecture. Nearby Park offers good spot for relaxation.
    Watch out for the Hotel Alfonso XIII and the Fabruca de Tabacos. (Carmen of the Opera worked there)

Avoid

  • Plaza de Toros - (for guide, in English and Spanish) You are kicked round the bull ring in 15 minutes by a guide who doesn't pause even between alternate languages. If you're going to Ronda visit the bull ring there instead.

Cordoba

Cordoba is the most historic of the Andalucian cities being previously both the Roman and Moorish capital of Spain. This sense of historic and former prestige is readily recognisable whilst strolling around the city. It is for the fabulous Mezquita which Cordoba is now famous, a building of world renown. But Cordoba does have a charm itself warranting a longer stay, with colourful patios

See Cordoba home page.

Arriving and Accommodation
Both the train and bus stations are located some distance to the North of the city centre. Bus No. 3 will runs from the bus station to the central Plaza Tendillas. Most of the accommodation is around the Mezquita. Those closet to the Mezquita tend to be more expensive with cheaper options a larger distance away.

Must See

  • Mezquita - this 8th century building encompasses many architectural styles includes a breathtaking Mihrab and is under no circumstances to be missed.
  • The River Area - walking along the southern bank of the river Guadalquivir offers a fantastic view of the city.
  • Archaeological Museum - (free with EU passport) In a beautiful location this museum is one of the best in Andalucia. Roman mosaics and statues are highlights of a thoroughly enjoyable collection.

By Choice

  • Alcazar - The Alcazar is unspectacular but offers good views of the city and has impressive mosaics in it's interior.
  • The Juderia - The Juderia as with all Andalucian cities this old quarter is a delight to stroll around.

Granada

Granada is, with Seville, one of the biggest tourist attractions in Spain, not just Andalucia. The primary reason is for the truly extraordinary monument of the Moorish Alhambra; this emotive, sensual palace-fortress is set against the magnificent backdrop of the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada. It is under no circumstances to be missed.

Whilst the Alhambra alone justifies a visit to Granada, the city is an attraction in it's own right. It is one among the most picturesque of the Andalucian cities, has an atmospheric gypsy quarter - the Albaicin.

See Granada home page.

Arriving & Accommodation
Both the train and bus stations are some distance form the city centre. From the bus station bus number 3 will take you to the centre, likewise bus number 11 from the train station. A convenient stopping place is the Gran Via (the main street) or the Plaza Nueva. The city centre itself is very compact and everything is within walking distance. However you might prefer to avoid the uphill walks to the Alhambra and Albaicin by using the frequent red buses (No 32 and 31 respectively).

There are numerous hostels on the long Gran Via street, especially around the Cathedral. And there are other options from the Plaza Nueva up towards the Alhambra.

Must See

  • The Alhambra
  • Mirador de San Nicolas - (This is where you can take that picture postcard photograph of the Alhambra with the snow-capped mountains in the background)
  • Albaicin - This Moorish quarter has character in parts, but watch out for the overtly touristy sections. Take the Carrera del Darros from the Plaza Nueva up towards Albaicin with the river alongside and the Alhambra as a backdrop, this walk is worth giving the bus a miss.

By Choice

  • Capilla Real and Cathedral - The Renaissance Cathedral is not among the better ones of Andalucia. The adjoining Capilla Real is of more interest. Here rest the tombs of Fernando and Isabel.
  • Arab Baths: (Free with EU passport) Half way up the Carrera Del Darro these well preserved 11th Century baths are well worth a quick look.
  • Archaeological Museum: (Free with EU passport) Further up the Carrero Del Darro this Archaeological museum is one of the best in Andalucia. The Roman section is a highlight, but unsurprisingly the Moorish section has pride of place.


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Málaga

Ronda

Cadiz

Jerez de la Frontera

Seville

Cordoba

Granada