Ubeda and Baeza trip account

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olive
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Ubeda and Baeza trip account

Postby olive » Wed Oct 14, 2020 4:36 pm

In 1983 we drove through Ubeda and said we would come back to explore it and it's neighbour Baeza about 8km away. This is a brief account of our more recent trip with some tips.

Ubeda is the larger of the two at around 37k population and so best to stay there. We stayed in the Santa Maria. Well situated and clean. The owner very helpfully saved us a parking spot outside. We found it a bit noisy with late and early vehicles on the cobbled street. We may have to have a rethink about our hotel strategy and look for either more rural properties or quieter locations.

There are two tourist trains. Go on the smaller one (only seats about twelve) as it can and does go in the smaller streets.

The old part of the town is compact and all the sights are within easy walking distance bar one but the walking is not easy. Wear stout shoes as most streets are cobbled. If you love renaissance architecture you will not be disappointed. The architect , Vandelvira, is buried in one of his buildings. He was prolific and was responsible for many churches and palaces as well as bridges and so on. One of his 16th c bridges can be viewed on foot at the tail end of the reservoir about 10km North of the town. Jaen cathedral is another of Valdelvira's works.

The tourist office is located in the centre of town , to the top left of the old town. While you are there take a trip up, the same building, what seems to be a thousand stair cases on a hot day in a mask, up the bell tower. The views are excellent over the town. You can appreciate just how large the Capilla del Salvador is. An added bonus is you get to hear and see the bells very close up!

Plenty of eating places. The hotel suggested the Bistro and we weren't disappointed despite it not rating highly on trip adviser. Plenty of social distancing. Quality Tapas with every drink was a bit disconcerting. We are used to tapas ceasing as soon as you have ordered any food. It was refreshing that tapas were included in the price. e.g. GandT 6 euros.

The views from the southern end of the old town around the road and footpath (the base of the town walls) are fantastic over the Guadalquivir valley with mountains in the distance.

A gem for us was the Sinagoga del Agua. Easy to find and not so easy to get tickets for. The doors only open ten minutes before each tour for advance ticket sales and then shut as the guide takes you and about nine others on a thirty minute tour. I think it was 4 euros each and not available from the tourist office as it is a private enterprise. The Synagogue may well be the oldest in Spain(possibly built before the 14 C) and was only discovered in 2007 during building works. Understandably there is scant documentation. You go around various rooms and spaces. There are seven wells. Two contain water. The Mikveh is of particular interest. No literature in English or descriptions. The guide spoke many words but in a measured way. We found it hard going not helped by many new unfamiliar words. My recommendation is to google it before on a Jewish Europe heritage site.

On our last day we went to Baeza down the road, More but less in number, fine Renaissance buildings. Underground parking near the centre was cheap and easy to find but accessed by a curious street that looked one way. Plaza de la Constitucion is a lovely place for some refreshments. We had excellent Sacher Torte and coffee.

Hope that helps anyone looking for a short break in Jaen Province and not too far away

elusive
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Re: Ubeda and Baeza trip account

Postby elusive » Thu Oct 22, 2020 9:50 am

We had a couple of nights in at the end of june a few years back. It was abit hot!. Stayed on plaza 5 mayo in a lovely apartment. A really stunning place if you are into architecture .agree re the synagogue s real little gem.went to baeza aswell for a day trip. Certainly somewhere i would visit again.

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Wicksey
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Re: Ubeda and Baeza trip account

Postby Wicksey » Thu Oct 22, 2020 12:08 pm

We did the trip about 15 years ago staying in the Parador in Ubeda. It's somewhere we are thinking of returning to for a short staycation as it was so lovely there. We also drove through Cazorla park which was very scenic.

elusive
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Re: Ubeda and Baeza trip account

Postby elusive » Thu Oct 22, 2020 1:09 pm

The parador looked pretty stunning (even for a parador) when we had a peak!

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Wicksey
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Re: Ubeda and Baeza trip account

Postby Wicksey » Thu Oct 22, 2020 2:30 pm

I think it was on offer for the night .... not our usual sort of place! Yes it's a beautiful building.

maureenscot
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Re: Ubeda and Baeza trip account

Postby maureenscot » Fri Oct 23, 2020 12:18 am

What a wonderful description Olive. Makes me want to go sometime


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