By John Gill
There has been a human settlement on the site of
Olvera for more than two thousand years. Archaeological findings
suggest this verdant agricultural region north-east of Ronda was
an important area for settlement as far back as the Palaeolithic
era, at least twelve thousand years ago.
It was definitely settled as a town by the Phoenician
and Roman periods, the latter calling it either Hippa or Hippo Nova.
Its first appearance in history is in the 1st century ACE History
of Pliny.
Like much of the Iberian peninsula, the area was
overrun by Visigoths from the Baltic region in the 5th century ACE,
and they were themselves expelled by Berber armies from north Africa
in the 9th century. The Berbers, roughly termed as 'Moors' in most
histories of Spain, began construction of the town, which they called
Wubira, or possibly Uriwila, as a defensive garrison that they managed
to hold on to under the rule of Granada's Nasrid rulers until the
town fell to the Christian reconquistadores in 1327.
The origin of the town's name is unknown. As was
often the case, Roman, Visigoth and Moorish names fused into the
later Spanish word, and Olvera has been variously described as a
neologism for a well, woodland or olive grove. Olive oil is one
of the area's main agricultural products.
When Olvera fell to the conquering army of Alfonso
XI in 1327, it came under the control of the Gúzman family,
who were awarded control of much of the region for their role in
the defence of Tarifa during the Reconquest. It later passed into
the hands of the dukes of Osuna. Its most famous son is probably
Nicolás de Ribera, born here in 1487, and one of the leaders
of Spain's conquest of Peru. He was made mayor of its capital, Lima,
in 1535.
 Ermita de Nuestra Seņora de los Remedios, stained glass window.
Like the rest of Spain, Olvera suffered economically
during the French occupation of the early 19th century, but flourished,
briefly, in the shortlived republican revolution of 1868. It became
notorious, like many a pueblo blanco, as a bandit refuge, so far
from the arm of the law that it was immortalised in a famous Andaluz
saying: 'Kill your man and flee to Olvera!'
Spain went into decline again at the end of the
19th century after the loss of its Cuban interests, but in the early
20th century Olvera hit a stroke of remarkable good luck. In fact,
one of Olvera's key modern-day tourism attractions, the 38km ruta
verde abandoned rail-line hiker/biker route linking it to Puerto
Serrano, is the result of a small but crucial economic fillip in
a period of economic downturn. The shortlived dictatorship of General
Rivera between 1923-29 decided, in the late 1920s, that Olvera should
be the key station on a new rail link between Almargen and prosperous
Jerez de la Frontera. Between 1927 and 1930, Olvera flourished on
its own tiny rail boom. The line was never completed, but today
its levelled trackbed a via
verde is one of the most remarkable walking experiences in Andalucía,
with half a dozen viaducts, more than twenty tunnels, two wayside
restaurants and a small hotel at the Olvera terminus.
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| The town of Olvera. |
The años de hambre, 'years of hunger', after
the Civil War affected Olvera like every other Spanish pueblo, inspiring
an inevitable population drift towards the coast. Olvera continues
to support its agricultural specialities, and its famed olive oils.
Its remarkable castle, probably the finest surviving example in
the region, has recently been renovated, and the dramatic Iglesia
de la Encarnación church in fact hides one of Andalucía's
best small museums behind its imposing bulk. The town was declared
a centre of artistic and historic importance in 1983.
There are now three hotels in Olvera, and an increasing
number of restaurants and bars when five years ago there were hardly
any. The Sierra y Cal hotel and restaurant (956 13 05 03) is among
the best, and friendliest.
The Hermitage Church of “Nuestra Señora de los Remedios” (Our lady of the Remedies) is situated two kilometres from Olvera on the road to Torre Alháquime. This is a unique building and well worth the visit. On the first floor you will find a whole room of paraphernalia, including, photographs, sports trophies, walking sticks, L plates, wedding dresses and babies outfits all dedicated to the Virgen de los Remedios as a thanks for her " miracles". There is a central patio filled with plants and a small chapel with an ornate alter and beautiful stained glass windows and a gift shop for souvenirs. Outside there is a statue to Fray Francisco de los Remedios Cerezco Cabrera, known affectionately as “Father Cerezco”, thanking the local people for restoring and maintaining the sanctuary for five centuries. There is also a beautiful cherry tree at the entrance of the church.
The tourist office is in the Edificio la Cilla,
Plaza de la Iglesia, by the Encarnación church, tel 956 12
08 16.
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