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Torre Guadalmansa

Torre Guadalmansa
Torre Guadalmansa

The tower is named after the Guadalmansa river which runs close by.

In common with the majority of such towers, its one entrance is high up on its side and the only method of entrance and exit would have been by ladder or rope. Most of the towers along the coast are mediaeval and post-date the Christian reconquest. This may be true of Torre de Guadalmansa, but it is unusual in that it is square rather than round, which suggest it may be Moorish.

Easily visible from the spot, just a little way inland and lending weight to the assumption, is the commanding Montemayor, on top of which still stand the impressive ruins of a Moorish castle.

Immediately beside the tower, excavations in 1915-16 and 1929 revealed an extensive Roman villa complex. The first excavation uncovered the remains of a large building and several pools, which led the leader of the dig, José Martinez Oppelt, to conclude that it had been a termas, or bath house.

The building had been richly ornamented with geometrical mosaics and marble columns. Five excellent mosaics were found and recorded at the time. Other items discovered included the shaft of a marble spiral column and adjoining building materials, as well as pottery and a small bronze bust of a woman.

Approximately 18 buildings were ultimately discovered, three of which had underground water depositories. The site was certainly wealthy, as coins, anchors, bronze and iron keys; clay vessels and brass needles were also unearthed.

Archaeologists should be eternally grateful for our age-old propensity to lose our money. Many a site has received it first tentative dating from loose change left lying around by those who had clumsy fingers or holes in their purses and pockets. On this particular site, which became known as Las Torres, the coins uncovered ranged from the era of the Emperor Vespasian (69-79) to that of Maximus (235-238).

The surrounds to the tower
The surrounds to the tower

Initially, the mosaics were left in situ, but by the time that Pérez de Barradas came to carry out the second set of excavations in 1929, he found the site in a pitiful state. Little, it seems, changes. Shocked by what he saw, he ordered their removal to prevent their inevitable destruction by thieves and vandals. The astonishing thing is that no-one in authority appears to have noticed this wholesale looting of a valuable archaeological site in the intervening thirteen years. Clearly, with so many pieces of the past littering the Andalucían landscape, it would be impractical, even undesirable, to attempt to preserve and protect every one. The past must give way to the present if we are not to stagnate. Living space is not infinite. Nevertheless, it seems astounding that sites as rich and important as Las Torres should simply be abandoned after excavation and left to the mercies of nature and the unscrupulous.

Peréz de Barradas unearthed a great many more items of interest: yellow and black ceramic pots, pieces of glass and crystal, more coins, a lamp and intriguingly, a large bronze bust of Gordian II. Since Gordian II was Emperor for only three weeks in 238 and even then only jointly with his father, Gordian I, the making of the price can be dated with some confidence to that year. If it took more than 21 days to make, it is doubtful that the sculptor got his fee. If he was a freelancing entrepreneur he probably cursed his luck, shouted a few obscenities about the fickleness of politics and sought out a new career.

The extent and variety of Pérez de Barradas finds revised the original opinion that the site was merely a termas. Barradas concluded that it was an extensive complex, perhaps even a small town, dedicated to, or certainly made wealthy by, the manufacture of garum, the much prized and ever popular fish paste. Since this was made from the intestines of fish macerated in vinegar, we may wonder today at its universal popularity in all parts of the Roman Empire, and its apparent ability to make millionaires of its most skilled manufacturers. But that is what it was, and that is what it did. Had Macdonald's existed in Roman times, its success would have been founded on the Double Whopper Quarter-Pounder Garumburger.

Since Pérez de Barradas removed the mosaics to the safety of a museum only the tower of Guadalmansa remains to be seen today, and a wide shallow pit is all that is left to make the site of the excavations. The visitor can, however, find a poignant reminder of the previous richness of the site simply by taking a walk by the adjacent shoreline. An examination of the cliff face is almost certain to yield a few fragments of pottery, if nothing else.

The surrounds to the tower and the excavations have been restored as a landscape feature in a communal part of an urban development. The area has been grassed and landscaped and makes for a pleasant stroll. The excavation have been left open and can be viewed at close hand from a rustic wooden bridge.

The above text was reproduced from the the book "In Search of Andalucia" by kind permission of the authors David Wood and Chris Wawn. Click here to order your copy from our online book store.


GPS Location:
36º 27' 05'' N 5º 03' 56'' W


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