Cazorla
by Saskia Mier
Cazorla is steeped in tradition. Its origin stretches back six centuries before Christ, although it was officially founded by the Romans, who named it Carcesa. Its splendour grew under Moorish and then Christian control. Today, the town has a medieval look, boasting numerous springs, narrow streets, and stone houses with balconies bursting with flowers. It has approximately 7,200 residents.
HISTORY
Around 2000 BC, the first stable towns were established along the oldest terraces of the Cerezuelo de Cazorla river. Near there, on a hill known as Loma del Bellotón, was a small town from the Bronze Age (1500 BC) and during the time of the Roman Empire, Romans settled in this region, known as ‘Saltus Tugiensis’. They named the mountains ‘Mons Argentarius’, to reflect the levels of silver and salt found there. The Roman presence was extensive in the region and some important historical remains have been found in this area of Cazorla. More>
Parador Hotels in Cazola
A very popular tourist destination all year round due its rich historic and cultural heritage, as well as it being an ideal setting for hiking and walking, Cazorla is flooded with accommodation… More →
With a total surface area of 209,920ha and covering almost a fifth of Jaen province, this is Spain's largest protected area and one its most extensive forested zones. Located in eastern Jaen… More →
The Alto Guadalquivir Natural Area comprises three reservoirs (embalses) covering 663ha, which are situated along the upper reaches of the Guadalquivir river. To the east is the largest one, the… More →
This tremendously varied walk makes for a great full day excursion. Leaving the pretty village of La Iruela you first climb up past the Alberquilla spring before contouring round the northern… More →
Cazorla is steeped in tradition. Its origins stretch back six centuries before Christ, although it was officially founded by the Romans, who named it Carcesa. Its splendour grew under Moorish and… More →
One of the longest-running festivals in Andalucia, this weekend blues and rock event in Cazorla the mountain village in the Sierra de Cazola Natural park, Jaen Province, started in 1994. Many… More →
There are bus services from Cazorla to Jaén, Úbeda, Granada, Baeza, Begijar, Málaga, Peal de Becerro, and Linares using ALSA.
The Castillo de las Cinca Esquinas (Castle of the Five Corners) also known as the SalvaTierra Castle, can be seen from most areas of Cazorla. It was built in the last third of the 14th century on… More →
Museums include Centre for Threatened Species, ciCUM centre offers visitors a broad perspective of the forest culture, Visitor Centre for the Tower of Vinegar and the historic olive oil mill La… More →
The Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of St Francis) is one of the best known in Cazorla, built in the 17th century on a site previously occupied by an old Franciscan Order convent. The church has… More →
If you are considering visiting Cazorla you will be interested to check the latest weather forecast for the next few days. This weather forecast provided by AEMET (Spanish State Meteorological… More →
There are bus services from Cazorla to Jaén, Úbeda, Granada, Baeza, Begijar, Málaga, Peal de Becerro, and Linares using ALSA.
Around 2000 BC, in the oldest terraces of the Cerezuelo de Cazorla River, the first stable towns were established. Near there, on a hill known as Loma del Bellotón, was a small town from the… More →
THINGS TO SEE
Iglesia de San Francisco
The Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of St Francis) is one of the best known in Cazorla, built in the 17th century on a site previously occupied by an old Franciscan Order convent. The church has a rectangular plan with three naves laterally divided into three planes. At its head, on the same transept, a dome rises on pendentives with paintings reminiscent of the Four Evangelists with the choir at their feet. It has a rich altarpiece, which dates from the middle of the 12th century. The altarpiece, covered with thin sheets of gold sheets, has in its central part an image of Santísimo Cristo del Consuelo, Patron Saint of the town, and on each side, paintings by Alfonso Grosso. The upper body is crowned by three paintings by Juan Miguel Sánchez, alluding to the founder of the Order.
Ruinas de Santa María
The ruins of the Iglesia de Santa María, is the most important monument of the Adelantamiento de Cazorla (a collection of lands and villages gathered for political or historical reasons). Though the exact date of its construction is unknown, it seems almost certain that it was carried out in the 16th century. Its style is Renaissance and possibly by the Renaissance architect Andrés de Vandelvira, as many of its elements are similar to other notable churches designed by him in Úbeda. The facade doorway, looking towards Calle de la Hoz, is an almost exact replica of that in the Iglesia de San Miguel in Jaén. It is unclear if the church was commissioned by the Episcopal Church of Toledo or by the Marquises of Camarasa, who were Adelantados (nobles) in those times. It is built on the Cerezuelo River, which flows across the entire church through a large vault under the main altar, continuing its course to underneath the Plaza de Santa María. On 2nd June 1694, a storm caused the Cerezuelo River to overflow, collapsing the church vaults and turning it into a dam. The deluge destroyed the altarpieces, along with many sacred images and ornaments. In 1903, the church was burnt down, and with damage caused during the Spanish Civil War it is now in poor condition. In the seventies and eighties, it was used as an auditorium for concerts and theatrical performances, offering a magnificent setting. During 2009 and 2010, a major restoration was undertaken; the structure was fixed, the stone cleaned, and interior and exterior lighting was installed to showcase this monument. Today, a Municipal Office of Information and Tourism and a Multicultural Space for concerts and performances is based within the Town Hall.
Bóveda del Río Cerezuelo
The bóveda (vault) that covers the Cerezuelo River was designed to enable the building of the Iglesia de Santa María. Half-barrelled (a form of half a cylinder) and very compact, the vault adapts to the unevenness of the river along the entire Plaza de Santa María. Its construction solved the separation of the two Cazorla River banks, allowing the design of an extensive urban planned space, with a great church presiding over the new public offices. The vault may have been closed long before the dates were carved on the walls of Santa María (1580-83-89), probably around 1536. Guided tours are available.
Iglesia de San José
The Iglesia de San José (Church of St Joseph) is the only remaining part of the Convento de Las Agustinas; the rest of the convent was absorbed into the building of a neighbouring hotel. The church is undergoing continuous restorations, altering its original appearance. The church and its original enclosure align with the traditional foundations for monasteries built in Cazorla throughout the 17th century and the beginning of the 18th century. The only decorative elements are the pillars Ionic order capitals (scroll-like ornaments on the sides). The interior walls were decorated in the middle of this century with copies of religious scenes from paintings by El Greco. Inside, next to the altar, the Sagrario chapel stands out. The church was impacted by the Spanish confiscation laws, (government seizure and sale of property including church property) and the looting and destruction from the Spanish Civil War. As a result, its altarpiece and interior aspect are from this century, with the main altarpiece the work of Valeriano Martínez from Burgos.
Castillo de la Yedra
The Castillo de la Yedra (Castle of the Ivy) is a fortification whose construction dates back to the Berber period and completed by the Castilians. The castle’s origin is Muslim, possibly from the Almohad period (12th century). However, throughout the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries the structure and design were completed by Christians, which explains why the Gothic style dominates the majority of its interior rooms. The castle consists of two very different parts: the Historical Section and the Arts and Customs Section. The Historical Section comprises three rooms, and its construction was conceived exclusively for military use in the palace of a feudal Lord or a medieval Monarch’s small court. The second section, the Arts and Customs Section, is known as the Museum of Arts and Popular Customs of Alto Guadalquivir and is a state museum managed by the Ministry of Culture of the Junta de Andalucía. Amongst many rooms of interest, a Weapons Room has been installed on the second floor, decorated with panoplies in the shape of a shield and furnished with different weapons: swords, crossbows, cutlasses, axes, etc. There are also two suits of armour, carved chests and various furniture and furnishings from the 16th and 17th centuries. In another room, there are oil mill models display from different periods, and in the third room, a reconstruction of a typical and spacious kitchen from Cazorla with all its furnishings and utensils.
Iglesia del Carmen
This 17th century church was part of the Compañía de Jesús College complex, which later became the chapel of the old hospital. Its decline began with the expulsion of the Jesuits and then with the confiscation laws (government seizure and sale of property including church property). It is in a dilapidated state; its roof was restored in the latter part of the 20th century, and there is currently a study to consider its total restoration. The layout is rectangular, with a choir and an upper and lower gallery. The portal is framed with Corinthian columns and a Bourbon coat of arms. Finally, its tower stands out, due to its proportions and design, as the best built in Cazorla.
MUSEUMS
Fundación Gypaetus
The Thematic Centre for Threatened Species (Gypaetus Foundation) is in the Antiguas Carnicerías (Old Butchers) building alongside the Cerezuelo River waterfall. The centre is a non-profit organisation working to conserve the natural heritage, landscape and threatened species and their habitats in the area. Here visitors can see and hear the lynx, the wolf, the Imperial Eagle, and the Bearded Vulture as well as lesser-known animals and plant life, all under threat of distinction, such as the Giant Noctule Bat, the Bustard, and the Cazorla Geranium. The museum has life-size replicas, screens, and sound effects, allowing visitors to read, interact, and learn. The centre also has telescopes to observe the nests of vultures, ibexes, falcons, and eagles nesting in the rocky peaks that frame the Cazorla town.
Centro Interpretación de la Madera Vadillo Castril
Also known as the ciCUM, the centre offers visitors a broad perspective of the forest culture and use of wood in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura, and Las Villas. It aims to give visibility to the cultural and ecological legacy embodied as heritage in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura, and Las Villas Natural Park. Possibly the most legendary and epic of the forestry culture conducted over hundreds of years was the maderada understood as the ‘grazing of the trunks’. The centre shares the history of how wood, trees and forests were forged, the laws established against exploitation and the sleepers that were manufactured here. It shares the history of the forest cable cars that transported wood, of the muleteers, who with their oxen and mules, hauled tons of material, of axe-men smeared with resin stripping the bark of trees, of sawmills that that sank the logs, and of log shepherds who crossed the river by dancing on them. The Vadillo Castril sawmill operated between 1942 and 1986, and was known for producing special beams, handles, sleepers, and wagon floors. The ciCUM exhibition is a unique experience in an extraordinary setting.
Centro de Visitantes Torre del Vinagre
The Centro de Visitantes Torre del Vinagre (Visitor Centre for the Tower of Vinegar) showcases the diverse ecosystems contained within the 214,336h of the Natural Park of the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura, and Las Villa. These ecosystems are displayed in the Interpretation Centre, giving a general overview of the nature of the mountains. Visitors can also discover the secrets of the five different aesthetic environments found in Las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura, and Las Villas. The first of which are rock landscapes where you can appreciate a world of shapes and colours; then that of water, as a source of life, wealth and diversity; thirdly, the pine forest, the most dominant forest in the mountains; then the rugged relief of the high peaks, somewhat hostile, but full of life; and, finally, the human landscapes, a territory which transforms continually. The Centre has a reception room, interpretation room, projection room, multipurpose room, and a hunting museum.
Museo Almazara Histórica La Almedina
This historical Almazara (oil mill) is situated in a 19th century farmhouse, where visitors can learn about the olive oil production process; the different ways of storing the oil, from old clay cellars through an iron tank up to the stainless-steel tanks used today. La Almedina is a complex of historic buildings known as the Palace of the Marqués de Foronda, which became an independent municipality. The complex comprises the palace house, a historic mill, and a modern one, where the Torreón de Nubla extra virgin olive oil is produced. The mill is an excellent example of how the ‘haute bourgeoisie’ (bankers and industrialists) tried to modernise the countryside, applying modern technologies and business criteria. The mill is also a good example of the oil industries set up after the olive grove crisis, which occurred at the end of the 19th century, demonstrating the transition from pre-industrial production systems to post-industrial revolution processes. The mill operated in the same manner until 1931. Between 1931 and 1936, the building remained closed as its owner had gone into exile (like King Alfonso XIII) when the Second Spanish Republic was proclaimed. During the Spanish Civil War, it was an administrative building for the Republican troops. In 1970, relatives of the Marquis sold the building, and the new owners operated the mill using a hydraulic press. In 1996, one of the first three-phase continuous oil extraction systems to arrive in Spain was installed. In 2002, the current owner, Félix Sánchez López de Vinuesa, bought La Almedina, and modernised the mill facilities, installing a modern two-phase continuous system. The mill now produces ‘Torreón de Nubla’ Extra Virgin Olive Oil with D.O. Sierra de Cazorla. The rehabilitated complex was inaugurated in November 2008, hosting the awards ceremony of the D.O. Sierra de Cazorla in the same year.
THINGS TO SEE OUTSIDE THE TOWN
Ermita San Isicio
The Ermita San Isicio (Hermitage of St Isicio) has its origin in a legend that at the dawn of Christianity, one of the seven Apostolic Men, Hesiguio or Isicio, brought the faith to Cazorla, establishing his episcopal seat there. He was revered as the Patron of the town. In 1535, a plague hit the town, killing people and livestock. The situation was so desperate that locals prayed to their Patron Saint, San Isicio, and as result they believed that the plague stopped and so on May 15th each year, the town holds a procession to the chapel.
Ermita del Ángel y San Miguel Arcángel
This hermitage (or chapel) of the Angel and St. Michael the Archangel, popularly known as the hermitage of the Angel of Cazorla, is one of the most emblematic monuments of the city. It is located on the road linking the town with the foothills of the mountains along the banks of the Cazorla River. The building had been abandoned, serving other functions very different from those of worship but recently, locals have worked to preserve it and, where possible, improve its appearance. It is of architectural interest as at first, it was an open construction on the four large pillars, covered by a low vault in the manner of the traditional ‘humilladeros’ (outdoor shrines). It served as a place of prayer for walkers at the exit and entrance of the town. Later, it underwent further architectural design and construction, including that of a bell tower, and became a chapel under the invocation of the archangel. Given the architectural design it may have its origin during the 16th century, as it is similar to the construction of the nearby Iglesia Mayor de Santa María. Subsequently, the rest of the building could be from an advanced moment of the 17th century and the beginning of the 18th century.
Ermita de San Sebastián
This chapel, together with the possible ‘humilladero’, is the oldest example of religious hermitage architecture. The interior has a single height and is covered by a slightly pointed half-barrel vault. Above this vault stands the roof, a recent but still unfinished project. The remains of its altarpiece can still be seen inside.
Castillo de las Cinca Esquinas
The Castillo de las Cinca Esquinas (Castle of the Five Corners) also known as the SalvaTierra Castle, can be seen from most areas of Cazorla. It was built in the last third of the 14th century on the remains of an old Arab fortification, probably by Archbishop Pedro Tenorio. It is a contemporary of the Torre del Homenaje del Castillo de la Yedra built to reinforce the defence of the capital and prevent possible attacks by the Nasrids of Granada. Given the existing ceramic remains, and the architectural elements used, it is thought that both the eastern and central enclosures are from the same period. The type of fabric used, as well as the ashlar and stonework on its walls, determine its contemporary age, possibly from a time in the middle to the end of the 12th century, coinciding with the Almohad domination of Al-Andalus and with the Christians very close to the north. The western enclosure with the tower is the most interesting architecturally. The stone used and the type of ashlars differ significantly, both in size and stonework. The tower stands out as an irregular pentagon and is two stories high. This construction presents architectural characteristics closer to the Christian period during the 14th century. Almost certainly unfinished as a whole, but perhaps it served along with the rest of the fortress as a place of defence for the Christians from the Muslim incursions coming from the west, in the Quesada area.
NATURAL AREAS
Jardín Botánico
The Botanical Garden is one of two similar botanical gardens in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura, and Las Villa Natural Park, the other located in Siles. The garden in the Vinegar Tower is larger and contains most of the woody species of the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura, and Las Villa Natural Park, including the endemic ones with samples of more than 300 species. These botanical gardens are informative and are designed for more educational purposes.
BUS SERVICE
There is a bus service from Cazorla to Jaén. More>
GASTRONOMY
Visitors to Cazorla can try traditional dishes such as gachamiga (fried breadcrumbs served with pork scratchings), andrajos (game or fish stew), rin-ran (mashed pepper and potato served with olives and cod), ajillo papas (garlic potatoes), and trucha en salsa de Almendras (trout in almond sauce). Sweet treats include arroz dulce (rice pudding), pan de higos (fig bread), and manjar blanco (pannacotta). It is also worth trying the risol (a drink made with coffee, chocolate, apple, and aniseed liqueur).
FESTIVALS
Popular festivals in Cazorla are the Festividad de San Antón, Entrada de los Borregos, Romería de la Virgen de la Cabeza, and Feria y Fiestas en Honor del Santísimo Cristo del Consuelo.
WEATHER FORECAST
The weather forecast for the next few days for Cazorla. More>
TOURIST OFFICE
The tourist office of Cazorla is in the Town Hall. More>
NEARBY PLACES
The neighbouring villages to Cazorla are Peal de Becerro and La Iruela.
Parador Hotels in Cazola
