Sunshine and tapas, a way of life in Seville |
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Cafés, bakeries and ice-cream
Going out for afternoon coffee has always been part of the culture here, and cakes have steadily improved in quality over recent years. In such a warm climate, ice-cream is also popular. Menus have expanded massively, taking in bagels, breakfast bowls, and smoothies. Brunch has also become popular - ideal for peckish late-rising visitors
CAFÉS AND BAKERIES
Filo
Hernando Colon 19
This place, between the cathedral and Plaza Nueva, is popular with students, thanks to its cool rustic-chic decor - esparto grass blinds and exposed brick walls. Impressive menus of salads, wraps, bagels, juices, smoothies etc. Try the mango chicken curry sandwich.
Paradas 7
Marques de Paradas 7
Close to the VO cinema, Avenida 5 Cines, and Plaza de Armas, this café was one of the first in Seville to offer novel options such as bagels and juices. Pretty interior with exposed brick walls. Great brunch (entire dedicated menu including bagels, breakfast bowls of fruit and yoghurt, and juices), as well as excellent salads, sandwiches and soups – and kombucha. Note that it closes at 4pm.
Mr Cake
Diego de Merlo 3
Pretty décor – elegant bar stools and velvet-seated chairs - at this café in Puerto Osario. Look out for the plantain, spice and Solera 1847 (oloroso Sherry), or lemon, apple and basil cakes.
Ofelia
Huelva 5
Cute café down a narrow street in the Alfalfa, with minimalist chic décor and friendly service. Light-filled interior, with a few outside tables. Tasty baked goods include cupcakes, cinnamon rolls, and plenty of vegan options.
Chök
Plaza Jesus de la Pasión 8 and Sagasta 20
Chocaholics will delight at this Barcelona-based chocolate specialist bakery! Superbly light-textured croissant-donut crossovers called krönuts, and iced cupcakes, but they don’t come cheap. Branches behind El Salvador church, and between Sierpes and Plaza del Salvador.
Domi Vélez
Álvarez Quintero 10
Lauded as the best bread-maker in the world, Lebrijano Domi’s loaves include a dense sourdough, spelt bread, and Payoyo cheese, pistachio and honey, as well as molletes (Andalucian bread rolls). Cakes are good too.
La Campana
Sierpes 1
This café is an institution in Seville, serving all the cakes and pastries beloved by locals as they enjoy a pit-stop after a hard morning's shopping. During Semana Santa you can get coloured Nazareno sweets (the penitents wearing long robes and hoods) which make a fantastic, if bizarre, souvenir. Otherwise traditional goodies include yemas (sweets made from egg yolks) and lenguas de almendro (almond biscuits).
Collette Patisserie - Boulangerie
San Eloy 13
With an authentic French vibe, this pretty bakery on bustling Calle San Eloy has delicious pastries such as croissants, pain-au-chocolat, dainty tarts, and macaroons. Great for a shopping-trip break in the Tiffany-turquoise shaded interior, or watch the world go by from the terrace.
La Cacharreria
Regina 14
All-day sandwiches, smoothies, and salads from breakfast to evening in this characterful place with quirky décor on calle Regina, between the Setas and calle Feria, as well as lunch-time burgers. Delicious home-made jams and bread, huge choice of toast toppings (fully-loaded gourmet versions are perfect for brunch). Also good early-bird deals on cocktails.
Cookie Love Love
Molino 11B
Made by Deborah, an American, these cookies and brownies are the real deal – sweet, chewy and delicious, with flavours like Oreo cheesecake, Dirty velvet (red velvet and Oreo), Crack (chocolate, marshmallows and cornflakes), and Sobresaliente (brownie-filled chocolate). Vegan versions available. Her own shop is close to the Alameda, but you can also find the all-American goodies in various cafes and restaurants around the city – see the Cookie Love Love website.
Manu Jara
Pureza 5 and Gourmet Experience, El Corte Inglés, Plaza del Duque
This French chef has become a byword for pasteleria excellence in Seville – he even offers pastry courses. His “bocasús”, little filled choux buns in flavours like carob, mango, and violet, are exquisite. Other treats include raisin and nut bread and prettily packaged bags of cookies.
Tetería Baghdad
Pureza 22
This cosy Moroccan-style tea house is decorated in soothing tones with lots of floor cushions, rugs and low lighting. If you need a change of scene from bright, noisy, tiled tapas bars, this is the place to come. Recline in comfort with an exotic tea served in a pretty tea glass. Perfect for a good, long chin-wag.
BRUNCH
Casa Orzáez
Betis 67, and Puesto 28, Mercado de la Carne, Avenida de Cádiz 33
Opened by the folks from cheese-makers Mare Nostrum, based in the Sierra Norte de Sevilla, this elegant eaterie-shop has two branches, in Triana with fabulous rooftop terrace (breakfast, and lunch and dinner on certain days) and San Bernardo (breakfast).
La Mala Brunch
Rivero 7 and Las Setas
On a small street just off Sierpes and at the Setas, this place has a mind-boggling selection brunch options, from breakfast bowls and bagels to pancakes. Well-priced.
Restaurante San Fernando, Alfonso XIII
San Fernando 2
The King of brunches, with a regal price tag of 65 euros, this Sunday afternoon buffet spread (13-16h) includes everything from cold meat, pastries and fruit, to eggs and pancakes cooked to order, to smoothies and sparkling wine.
See also La Cacharreria and Paradas 7 above.
ICE-CREAM PARLOURS
A cone or tub with one scoop varies from 2.50 to 3.50 euros, with two scoops costing 3.50-4.50 euros.
Rayas
Almirante Apodaca 3 and San Pablo 45
Oldest ice-cream parlour in Seville, with one of the widest choices of flavours, such as cheese with figs, and still very popular with families. Next to Plaza Cristo de Burgos and at the top of Zaragoza.
Freskura
Calle Vulcano 4
On the hip-and-happening Alameda, this gelateria has typical Italian flavours such as pistachio, limoncello, and cremino (mascarpone, hazelnut and cocoa), as well as mini-desserts and fruit ice lollies.
Bolas
Orfila 1, Puerta de la Carne 3, Feria 39, Herbolarios 20
Wide variety of chocolate flavours, and plenty of lactose-free, as well local Moorish-inspired flavours with ingredients like cinnamon and sultanas, and seasonal specials. They also have a palmera flavour created with master pastry chef Manu Jara (see below). Four branches, in the centre, Santa Cruz, calle Feria and the Alfalfa.
Olmo
Cuesta del Rosario 1
This ice-cream parlour next to Salvador church, with its distinctive green sign and Arabic star logo, has all the fruit flavours you'd expect plus a variety of chocolate ones (including dairy-free) and some historically-inspired tastes: La Medina is a Moorish delight of orange, ginger and cinnamon.
Créeme
Plaza del Museo 2
A pun on crema (cream) and crée+me (believe me), this artisan ice-cream shop opposite the Bellas Artes museum also has good granizados.
Loco Polo
Plaza del Duque de la Victoria 14
Make your own ice-cream at this shop opposite the main El Corte Inglés - first choose the basic polo (lolly), ice-cream or fruit sorbet, and then add a covering (eg chocolate) to dip it in, and add chopped nuts or other toppings. They even have frozen cocktail lollies, as well as stick waffles.
Mito
Almirantazgo 8, San Pablo 14, Álvarez Quintero 8.
Italian gelato at three branches in the centre: by Plaza Salvador, next to the Postigo del Aceite, and near Magdalena church.
Puro e bio
Asunción 48
Organic ice-cream in Los Remedios. Vegan (made with rice milk), lactose-free, and sugar-free available. Flavours like ginger and cinnamon or dulce de leche (caramel), as well as ice-cream cookie sandwiches.
