The Magical Night of San Juan

The Magical Night of San Juan

Certain festivals seem to summarise life in Spain, with its love of having a good time in the company of friends and loved ones. The Night of San Juan is definitely one of these events. It is a celebration that is usually held on the beach with roaring bonfires, drink, food, and friends. It is a memorable, almost surreal scene and one that needs to be experienced.

The summer solstice remains a magical night in much of the northern hemisphere. Mythology states that strange things can occur on this shortest night of the year. Certain pagan gods, for instance, make themselves visible during this night and we mere humans also give thanks and realise that the seasons of harder times are still to come.

So welcome to the magical night of San Juan. San Juan is all about changes. It is about night and day; fire and water. Fire purifies and water recuperates, refreshes, and rejuvenates.

Bonfires are the theme of the night. Men and women, young people and children all spend time building these bonfires. According to tradition, if people jump over a bonfire three times on San Juan's night, they will be cleansed and purified, and their problems burned away.

In Andalucia, San Juan is celebrated on the night of June 23rd with some towns, such as Almuñécar, in Granada, allowing the beaches to be used as campsites for a single night. On the beaches of Malaga it's common to see people jumping over fires which, according to legend, cleanse the body and the soul. Jumping in the sea at midnight is supposed to be a way to wash away evil spirits.

It is ritual that rules at San Juan. After midnight, for example, people wash their faces and feet three times in order to be granted three wishes and for a happy twelve months thereafter. Bathing at this time is also said to be beneficial for skin complaints. Traditionally, the Spanish did not visit the beach until this day in each year. The sight of hundreds and even thousands of people wandering into the water after midnight with the haze of bonfires everywhere can be close to awe inspiring.

As well as the bonfires that burn continuously, there are also 'júas' which are muñecos or dolls that are burnt. This is usually done around midnight. Originally, the effigies were supposed to represent Judas Iscariot but now, the religious relevance seems to have become secondary to the enjoyment factor.

 

 

 

 

Malaga city

In Málaga city, the centre of the celebrations is in front of the Antonio Banderas promenade on La Misericordia beach. Traditional activities include a band performing at the 1 de Mayo roundabout. At midnight, the burning of the 'júa' takes place, followed by fireworks from the jetty by La Térmica. The band then plays again until 01.00.

Torremolinos

The celebrations in Torremolinos centre on Carihuela beach. The 'Hermandad de Marineros Virgen del Carmen de la Carihuela' organises the traditional San Juan moraga on La Carihuela beach, in front of the La Zoca restaurant, usually starting at around 20:30. A moraga is a night-time barbecue party, typically held on the beach. What differentiates a moraga from a barbecue is that the food being cooked is an espeto of sardines. There will be a bar selling food and drink, as well as live music. The traditional burning of 'júas' in a large bonfire takes place at midnight on the esplanade next to the children's playground in Calle Jacinto de Mesa.

Marbella

The official (town hall sponsored) celebrations in Marbella centre on El Cable beach. The evening traditionally starts at 8pm and features a line-up of local DJs and bands playing popular covers. A late-night DJ then takes over, playing until 2am. Many of the beach bars and restaurants hold special San Juan events featuring cocktails, buffets, live entertainment, bonfires and fireworks.

San Pedro de ALcantara

In San Pedro, the focus is on La Salida beach. It is located at the western end of the main San Pedro promenade (Calle Fernando Moreno Espada), at the end of Avenida del Mar Mediterráneo, which runs down to the centre of the Bulevar. Local DJs start playing at 8 pm, followed by a live band. After midnight, a late-night DJ takes to the stage.

Estepona

In Estepona there has been a competition since the 1970's called 'Quemando los Bigotes de San Juan' (Burning the moustache of San Juan) the moustache is a euphanism for 'bad people' since bandeleros (bandits) often had moustaches.  Quite often the dolls are made up to represent local, national or international personalities who are infamous. Some of the effigies can be quite elaborate. The winning entries are ritually burned on the beach just after midninght. The burning of these effigies is supposed to bring good luck but quite often, it is just good fun and it makes a great spectacle.  The best place to join the festivitites in Estepona is La Rada Beach infront of the correos (post office) near the centre of the old town. A stage is set up for a free concert in the evening from about 21.00.

Sabinillas (Manilva)

In Sabinillas, the focus is on Playa de Sabinillas, which is located in front of Avenida Manilva in the centre of the village, as well as the seafront promenade that extends in both directions. In the preceding weeks, a large wooden structure is constructed which is topped by topical characters. Rather like the carnival, it is humorous in nature, but also pokes fun at authority. For a small village, it is a very popular San Juan location. At midnight, the structure is lit and turns into a huge bonfire and a 15-minute fireworks display begins. There are DJs performing on several stages along the seafront promenade, and the bars and restaurants along the seafront are full. Unless you arrive early, your only option for parking is on the Camino los Baños, where the fairground and other plots double as large car parks.

Torreguadiaro

In Sotogrande and Torreguadiaro the focus is on Playa Torreguadiaro which is located in front of Torreguadiaro Village a short walk along the beach form Sotogrande Marina.

Fuengirola

The traditional San Juan fireworks display is held on San Francisco beach in Fuengirola on the night of San Juan. At around 9.30pm, bands perform on the stage set up in Calle Miguel Bueno.

Mijas ( la Cala de Mijas)

The celebrations in Mijas take place in La Cala de Mijas and on its beach. The focus of the evening is live music and the traditional burning of Júas (effigies) at midnight. There is a band playing on stage. Traditionally, activities start at 20.00. There are also activities in Mijas Pueblo, however San Juan is traditionally a beach festival.

Benalmadena

In Benalmádena, the focus of San Juan alternated between Arroyo de la Miel, Benalmádena Pueblo, and Benalmádena Costa. In 2025, the lights will be switched on at 22:00 on the fairground in Arroyo de la Miel. The burning of the Júas will take place at midnight. Then, at 1am, there will be a fireworks display in the area around Bil Bil Castle in Benalmádena Costa.

Nerja

In Nerja, the focus of San Juan is Burriana Beach. Traditional events include the symbolic burning of the 'Júa' at midnight, followed by fireworks. There are musical performances before and after from 22:00. The only Nerja beaches where the usual ban on bonfires has been lifted for the night of San Juan are Burriana Beach, Torrecilla Beach and Maro Beach.

 

Generally

Depending where you experience San Juan, you might find yourself almost entranced by the spectacle. In some places, hundreds upon hundreds of fires dot the coastline. The smell of smoke permeates the air and there is a feeling of camaraderie that crosses age, culture, and background.

The bonfires and live music on the beaches are free to attend. Beach bars are very full so come early or be prepared to wait for a table. Many of the beach bars and restaurants hold special ticketed pre reserved San Juan events featuring cocktails, buffets, live entertainment, bonfires and fireworks.

So make sure that you reserve the night of June 23rd for La noche de San Juan. Bring plenty to drink, something to eat, carry a sweater if you are going to be near the water, and be prepared to see the sun rise on the morning of the 24th. There are always concerts, music, and other types of entertainment to keep revelers interested all night long, as if watching the beauty of the bonfires were not enough. Purify and enjoy.